MKIII 2245 VQ problems

Sparks134 · Post by **Sparks134** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 12:29 pm

Last night I installed a VQ trigger and sear. Took me and a helper ( at times a 3rd hand comes in handy ) 25 min. to perform the operation. All seemed well, I adjusted the trigger set screws and it felt great. .............However,
at the range this morning I found that I had to push the trigger forward ( this after backing up the set screws a lot ) in order to shoot the next round. Not on every shot, but better than 50% of the time .
Also at times the magazine became stuck to the point where much force was needed to remove it.
This next part is weird.
The magazine safety now does not work! It will fire without a magazine in it, and I have not performed that mod.......Yet.
After putting some 300 rounds thru it and after it firing 2 rounds with one squeeze of the trigger I decided to call it a day.
I am now going down to my cave(bsmt. work bench) take the Ruger apart and try to see what I did,But first another review of Bullseyes tutorial....Any ideas where I goofed up?....Ed

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 12:32 pm

Check your magazine disconnector safety parts there's something not installed correctly there. If you take some pictures I can look at them.

R,
Bullseye

Sparks134 · Post by **Sparks134** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 2:18 pm

Yep, something was installed wrong all right!
The magazine disconnector spring was in wrong, and bent up pretty bad. I re-shaped it and all seems well now. Tomorrow I'll call Ruger and order a new one. While disassembling the gun I noticed the sear pin had drifted to the left, so the mag disc spring was a suspect.
Thanks so much Bullseye for such a fast responce
I had just got the gun back from Tacsol (2nd time) for fail to feed issues. I ran 300 rounds and had 12-13 ftf,The bad guys were winchester Wild Cats, with 5 out of 50,
Rem Golden Bullets HP, 2 out of 50,
CCI MiniMag HP 5 out of 100
American Eagle were flawless, as were CCI standard.
Not exactly as good as I expected but still not bad, that's 4 percent FTF. Well, it's not a self defense weapon any how.
I'll be back at the range tomorrow and I'll give the test results.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 6:28 pm

The sear pin should not be capable of drifting to the left because the sear's legs should lock it in place. Ensure that the grooved side of the sear pin is installed on the left side of the frame. Also check that the long leg of the sear is in behind the hammer pivot pin to lock both pins in place. They should look like the pictures found here http://www.guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm

R,
Bullseye

Sparks134 · Post by **Sparks134** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:34 pm

Neither of my sears have a groove in it, but it is installed correctly. Also the long leg of the sear spring is behind the hammer pin and is locked into it's groove
I tried pushing all 3 pins after the final assembly and none are moving in either direction

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:43 pm

I was mentioning the sear pivot pin's groove, the groove should be on the left side of the pistol like the one in this picture http://www.guntalk-online.com/images/22 ... 3_ds06.jpg Your 22/45's sear pin has a groove cut in it - right?

R,
Bullseye

Sparks134 · Post by **Sparks134** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 4:32 pm

No, there is no groove on either the OEM sear or the VQ sear.
The VQ sear # is VC2TS. Their web site calls it a This specially designed sear provides the shooter with a shorter, faster, cleaner breaking trigger pull. The mating surface is a precision ground surface. Fits Ruger MKII, MKIII and 22/45.
I assume it's the right sear............Ed
Took it to the range today after work and put another 250 rounds thru it, and it ran perfectly with Federal American Eagle (150 rnds ) and CCI Standard Velosity (100 rnds. ).
I did call Ruger and ordered a new style hammer pivot pin, a recoil spring assembly and a disconnector spring, all for $15 including shipping.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:45 am

I guess we're not on the same page, I'm not saying the sear should have a groove in it but that the pivot pin that holds the sear in place in the frame should have a groove cut in it. If you look closely at the picture I linked in my last post, you will see a pin next to the number one. That's the sear pin sticking out and it has a groove cut into it. That groove holds the pin in place in the frame. Some folks install the pin backwards and then the sear legs cannot lock it down which results in the pin walking out of the frame. This sounds like what you described earlier because the pin cannot move in the frame if locked in properly.

R,
Bullseye

Sparks134 · Post by **Sparks134** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 5:06 pm

Sorry for the mix-up. It's probable I had the pin in backwards. After pulling it apart just now, the sear pivot pin is in with the groove on the left side.I've tore this gun apart a dozen times or so and thought I was familiar with it. I'll keep the Ruger Book open next time. The only other pistol I ever dis-assembled all the way down is my Kimber 1911. I was told that it can't be put together wrong and still shoot.