trigger reset

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AllGator
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trigger reset

Post by AllGator » Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:26 pm

I recently purchased a 22/45 Lite for my 8-year old granddaughter to participate in local steel matches. It was chosen for it's (light) weight and moderate grip size. However, it's OEM trigger pull/release was totally unacceptable...but with the usual removal of the mag disconnect and LCI; substituting VQ parts; and some judicious internal polishing produced a two-pound trigger with minimal creep. BUT, the reset remained very, very long.

This is my first Ruger...and my only other .22 pistol is my CZ Kadet...so, I'm a noobie. After studying the fire control system I decided that shortening the tab on the disconnector would allow it to come out of the sear more quickly thus allowing a quicker reset. Step-by-bit, I ultimately removed almost .040 from the front of the tab. Mission accomplished! In addition it moved the resting position of the trigger much closer to the rear of the trigger guard...which was OK because of my granddaughter's small hands and short fingers.

My question is: Is there something of which I'm unaware that makes this a questionable/unsafe modification? Or is this an acceptable, usual mod to achieve a shorter reset? Is there another way? Any critique would be appreciated.

A-G

BTW, she now is able to produce sub-.20 splits...which makes her Granddad really, really proud.

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Post by Bullseye » Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:06 pm

Shortening the disconnector tab does change the point of reset but as you've no doubt discovered it also changes the point of sear release. As long as you have a happy medium there's nothing to be concerned about by doing this modification to the disconnector. You can even adjust the pretravel screw in the trigger farther inward to prevent the trigger from having to move all the way forwards when the reset and release are so much closer to the back of the trigger guard.

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Post by AllGator » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:24 pm

Thanks for the quick response and reassurance. After I did it and thought about it, I had that moment of doubt about unintended consequences...particularly the safety aspect. Experience has taught me that many times I don't know what I don't know. You're dead right about the massive removal of the pre-travel.

Thanks again.

A-G

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Post by Bullseye » Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:48 am

Movement of the sear face is limited by the hammer hook. Because of this limit, the thumb safety is not typically impacted by removing material off of the disconnector tab. What does change is how the trigger interacts with the sear since the disconnector lever is the means by which the trigger and hammer are interconnected.

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Post by blue68f100 » Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:14 am

You may want to look at the Clark Bushing. It will limit the sear/hammer engagement to around 0.020-0.025".
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Post by AllGator » Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:23 pm

Thanks for responding. I've enjoyed reading many of your previous postings.

I had installed the Clark bushing: Actually, by the flange of the bushing blocking the sear to minimize the sear/hammer contact to reduce creep, the tab was placed further forward in the groove in the sear...and, so, it exacerbated the long, long reset. It is one of the reasons which precipitated the shortening of the disconnector tab.

I could have removed even more from the tab, but the trigger was steadily moving back toward the back of the trigger guard and I wanted to leave sufficient space for over-travel to insure that the sear would fully clear the hammer. Additionally, and equally important, I was able to remove a bunch ( I do mean a bunch) of pre-travel.

The change in the dynamics of the trigger is so dramatic and so positive that I am surprised it hasn't been discussed previously. Perhaps because Bullseye shooting doesn't require/emphasize a short, short reset. But when you are firing (a minimum) of five shots in well under two seconds, the reset becomes vital.

Our local club steel matches will generally have one or two stages in a match that require multiple double-taps. I mentioned above that my Granddaughter has been shooting sub-.20 splits with this trigger. I'm proud...but I don't know how I'll feel when she starts beating me.

A-G

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Post by Bullseye » Fri Jan 31, 2014 9:37 am

There are some things I do not as a policy discuss because generally for many folks it is either beyond their mechanical capabilities or could lead to an unsafe situation. When you look around the internet forums you see plenty of people who are challenged to the edge of their capabilities by simply field stripping and reassembling their Ruger .22 Auto pistols. Tuning a pistol for a specific event, as a match pistol, is something that should be left to a skilled artisan rather than someone who is just trying to tweak their firearm's performance as a hobby. I've turned down folks in the shop who ask for a custom trigger job beyond what is safe for field work.

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Post by AllGator » Fri Jan 31, 2014 12:01 pm

Fully understood...a reasonable policy. I intended no criticism...sorry if it came across that way.

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Post by Bullseye » Fri Jan 31, 2014 12:57 pm

No apologies are necessary, I was simply describing why there isn't very many descriptions online about more in-depth trigger work. Everything you accomplished worked out for your situation, but others may take that information and achieve different results by not taking the same precautions you obviously have - Different skill sets can often produce mixed results.

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