Hammer and Bushing "Glued" = Drag
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Hammer and Bushing "Glued" = Drag
Hello Members
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I decided to "glue" the hammer and hammer bushing in my MK II.
I carefully prepped the parts by deburring, cleaning, checking the fit of parts to be flush and flat. I used Loctite 638 (retaining compound) to "glue" the Clark bushing and Volq. hammer together.
Later on when I assembled the lower and checked for function I noticed the hammer assembly did not fall freely when the trigger was pulled and the lower moved up and down. I could move the assembly with my fingers but there was a noticeable drag.
I disassembled and reassembled several times checking everything and lubing generous but still the drag.When I assembled it with factory parts it (hammer assembly) moved freely.
I took the the gun to the range and ran over 200 rounds without a hiccup so I know it will shoot reliably.
But I am puzzled. Has anyone have a similar experience ? Any thougths or comments would be appreciated.
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I decided to "glue" the hammer and hammer bushing in my MK II.
I carefully prepped the parts by deburring, cleaning, checking the fit of parts to be flush and flat. I used Loctite 638 (retaining compound) to "glue" the Clark bushing and Volq. hammer together.
Later on when I assembled the lower and checked for function I noticed the hammer assembly did not fall freely when the trigger was pulled and the lower moved up and down. I could move the assembly with my fingers but there was a noticeable drag.
I disassembled and reassembled several times checking everything and lubing generous but still the drag.When I assembled it with factory parts it (hammer assembly) moved freely.
I took the the gun to the range and ran over 200 rounds without a hiccup so I know it will shoot reliably.
But I am puzzled. Has anyone have a similar experience ? Any thougths or comments would be appreciated.
How was the hammer pin when you installed it in the bushing? Was it tight? With basically both parts moving (bushing and pin) if one is tight the other can take up the slack. Since you've LocTited sealed in the bushing the hammer pin has to move smoothly. You can take some rubbing compound and mix it with some light oil and make a lapping compound. Apply some of the oil/compound to the pin and work it for a while to smooth up the fit. Clean up all the parts to remove all the cutting material and try again with a little lubricant. Be sure that some of the sealant didn't migrate to your hammer pin and lock it into the bushing. If it did then all the friction is now on the hammer pin holes in the frame.
Also check to ensure that your bushing is fully seated in the hammer otherwise you may have excessive friction on either the thumb safety side or the disconnector side.
Is there any evidence of rubbing from the hammer strut rivet head on the side of the thumb safety lever? If there is then you can file the top of the rivet head smooth to take off a little of the metal to free up the hammer.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Also check to ensure that your bushing is fully seated in the hammer otherwise you may have excessive friction on either the thumb safety side or the disconnector side.
Is there any evidence of rubbing from the hammer strut rivet head on the side of the thumb safety lever? If there is then you can file the top of the rivet head smooth to take off a little of the metal to free up the hammer.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Thank you very much for your help/reply.
The hammer pin was slip fit in the bushing.
I think you are asbolutely correct in your assessment.
I'm going to tear the whole thing down again and check every part for fit, (hammer pin) wear and rub marks and look for any excess material. Your correct, something has to be tight or binding.
I did file down the hammer pin head. I'm pretty sure the bushing is flat and flush with the hammer side. I even removed a small amount of material from the safety for clearance.
I wonder with the slack taken out if any slight misaligment ( holes in fame) could cause this problem?
I will definitely keep and use all your suggestions in mind.
Thank You
Walt K
The hammer pin was slip fit in the bushing.
I think you are asbolutely correct in your assessment.
I'm going to tear the whole thing down again and check every part for fit, (hammer pin) wear and rub marks and look for any excess material. Your correct, something has to be tight or binding.
I did file down the hammer pin head. I'm pretty sure the bushing is flat and flush with the hammer side. I even removed a small amount of material from the safety for clearance.
I wonder with the slack taken out if any slight misaligment ( holes in fame) could cause this problem?
I will definitely keep and use all your suggestions in mind.
Thank You
Walt K
- Coach1
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 210
- Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:09 pm
- Location: Apex North Carolina
Tight hammer issues
Welcome to GTOL, Walt.
Glad you decided to share your problem here.
Good luck
Glad you decided to share your problem here.
Good luck
"You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need." The Rolling Stones
- blue68f100
- Master contributor
- Posts: 1997
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
- Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
Walt, Welcome to Guntalk-Online
The hammer should freely fall with gravity. If by chance the bushing is cocked just a tad, it impact the alignment on the pin. It's also possible that your pin holes could not be square to the frame, but very unlikely. Like Bullseye stated you have eliminated one of the rotating points so the last one must be dead on and move freely.
The hammer should freely fall with gravity. If by chance the bushing is cocked just a tad, it impact the alignment on the pin. It's also possible that your pin holes could not be square to the frame, but very unlikely. Like Bullseye stated you have eliminated one of the rotating points so the last one must be dead on and move freely.
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
What kind of trigger do you have in your pistol; factory or aftermarket? When you take the receiver off and squeeze the trigger can you see the sear face fully clear the hammer hook? If the sear is not clearing the hammer this can also be the source of your drag. The factory trigger has an overtravel stop in the front face just above the mounting pin. To adjust it you must remove the trigger and use an allen wrench.
On the positive side the pistol functions normally when assembled. The newer Mark III pistols do not all have hammers that fall freely under gravity because of all the extra parts in them for the magazine disconnect lever assembly. This usually means some pistols need a little coaxing to get the hammer fully forward for disassembly and removal of the mainspring housing. Taking the pistol and tapping the muzzle (vigorously) onto a block of wood on the floor usually does the trick. If you have excessive drag on the hammer pin you can use the lapping compound method I suggested earlier to loosen the fit of the bushing and pin.
R,
Bullseye
On the positive side the pistol functions normally when assembled. The newer Mark III pistols do not all have hammers that fall freely under gravity because of all the extra parts in them for the magazine disconnect lever assembly. This usually means some pistols need a little coaxing to get the hammer fully forward for disassembly and removal of the mainspring housing. Taking the pistol and tapping the muzzle (vigorously) onto a block of wood on the floor usually does the trick. If you have excessive drag on the hammer pin you can use the lapping compound method I suggested earlier to loosen the fit of the bushing and pin.
R,
Bullseye
The trigger is a standard Volq. after market with pre and over travel adjustment screws which I adjusted correctly.
Yes, I can see the sear fully clear the hammer. In fact I relieved the bottom of the hammer to fully clear the sear.
I'm definitely going to check out the hammer pin situation which may be the culprit.
Thank you for your help.
Yes, I can see the sear fully clear the hammer. In fact I relieved the bottom of the hammer to fully clear the sear.
I'm definitely going to check out the hammer pin situation which may be the culprit.
Thank you for your help.