In for a box of .380 out with a box of .380 and a Model 19-4, pinned barrel, target trigger.... Darned expensive ammo and they don't fit the gun I bought all that well.
Expensive .380 Ammo
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
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greener
Expensive .380 Ammo
Dropped by Wallyworld for some .380 ammo. No joy, so I wandered down to my favorite hunting and fishing store. They had .380 (one box per customer). Made the mistake of asking "what you got that's interesting?"
In for a box of .380 out with a box of .380 and a Model 19-4, pinned barrel, target trigger.... Darned expensive ammo and they don't fit the gun I bought all that well.
In for a box of .380 out with a box of .380 and a Model 19-4, pinned barrel, target trigger.... Darned expensive ammo and they don't fit the gun I bought all that well.
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Downeaster
- Advanced contributor
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- Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:03 pm
- Location: Downeast Maine
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greener
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greener
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greener
The light strikes seem to have increased between Tuesday and Thursday. Was quite an issue yesterday. Guess it is time to figure out how and what to fix the problem. Might be enjoyable if I did it, but I'm not too sure which parts to look at. The worst that can happen is a box of revolver parts looking for a gunsmith.
Wow, I'm jealous of that baby! Being a S&W, I bet she sure shoots nice. Ahem, my problem, Mr. Greener, you went in for .380 ammo, and came out with a .357 magnum? That's cheating! Ethically speaking, isn't a person somewhat bound to the same caliber gun if he decides to buy one? 
I thought that was a rule of "handgun law". Maybe not. Let me see, I'm going to go to the gun store and get some 380, and maybe I'll come out with _ _ _ _ ?
Just joshin',
enjoy, haka
I thought that was a rule of "handgun law". Maybe not. Let me see, I'm going to go to the gun store and get some 380, and maybe I'll come out with _ _ _ _ ? Just joshin',
enjoy, haka
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bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
You may just need a good detailed cleaning. Here are some instructions on disassembling your Model 19 (K frame)
Start with gunsmith screwdriver (which is hollow ground and fitted to the screw heads without damaging them).
1) Remove the grips.
2) Remove the three screws in the revolver's side plate. The foremost screw secures the cylinder and yoke. It is special, set this screw aside because you don't want to confuse it with one of the other screws.
3) Using the handle of a hammer or non-marring mallet, rap on the grip frame to "rattle" the side plate off. The hammer block mechanism can now be picked up and set aside.
4) Loosen the screw for the hammer spring (located on the front strap of the frame near the butt). You may unhook the hammer spring from the stirrup and remove it.
5) You can use a flat bladed screwdriver to push the rebound slide spring in and lift it up from the pin. The rebound slide and slide spring may now be removed.
6) Cock the hammer such that it may be disengaged from the trigger. You should be able to disengage it and lift the hammer from the frame.
7) Depress the cylinder release and open the action. The cylinder and yoke comes out now. Note: if you remove the cylinder and yoke before you remove the hammer, you'll find the bolt" prevents the hammer's rearward rotation; making it difficult to remove.
8) Depress the trigger to clear it and lift it out of the frame.
9) Remove the cylinder stop spring and next the cylinder stop assembly itself.
Detail stripping complete. Reassemble in reverse order. If you feel a little overwhelmed, take photos at each step, prior to removing any of the parts. This will better help you remember their orientation of each part as it goes back into the frame. There's always that one part which doesn't want to go back correctly and is difficult to recall the exact way it fit.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Start with gunsmith screwdriver (which is hollow ground and fitted to the screw heads without damaging them).
1) Remove the grips.
2) Remove the three screws in the revolver's side plate. The foremost screw secures the cylinder and yoke. It is special, set this screw aside because you don't want to confuse it with one of the other screws.
3) Using the handle of a hammer or non-marring mallet, rap on the grip frame to "rattle" the side plate off. The hammer block mechanism can now be picked up and set aside.
4) Loosen the screw for the hammer spring (located on the front strap of the frame near the butt). You may unhook the hammer spring from the stirrup and remove it.
5) You can use a flat bladed screwdriver to push the rebound slide spring in and lift it up from the pin. The rebound slide and slide spring may now be removed.
6) Cock the hammer such that it may be disengaged from the trigger. You should be able to disengage it and lift the hammer from the frame.
7) Depress the cylinder release and open the action. The cylinder and yoke comes out now. Note: if you remove the cylinder and yoke before you remove the hammer, you'll find the bolt" prevents the hammer's rearward rotation; making it difficult to remove.
8) Depress the trigger to clear it and lift it out of the frame.
9) Remove the cylinder stop spring and next the cylinder stop assembly itself.
Detail stripping complete. Reassemble in reverse order. If you feel a little overwhelmed, take photos at each step, prior to removing any of the parts. This will better help you remember their orientation of each part as it goes back into the frame. There's always that one part which doesn't want to go back correctly and is difficult to recall the exact way it fit.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
