Opinion Poll

Downeaster · Post by **Downeaster** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:11 am

Just curious here, and I expect there'll be strongly held beliefs on both sides of the issue, but several recent posts have solidified my position on something I've been thinking about off and on for quite some time.

The subject is routine detail stripping of weapons for cleaning. Not taking something apart because there are specific issues or to make improvements, but taking a weapon completely apart to clean it because "it's time". After ******* rounds, or every X weeks or months for example.

I've never done it. I have (or have had) wheel guns and selfshuckers that have digested thousands of rounds, both rimfire and centerfire and have never been detail stripped, just a thorough external cleaning and oiling after EVERY use.

My feeling is that if you don't REALLY know what you're doing, it's at least possible, and IMHO likely, that you're creating more wear/damage by unnecessarily stripping and reassembling the weapon.

KAZ · Post by **KAZ** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:42 am

I'm in the don't go past the first level(manufacture recommended) for cleaning,and only going further when component failures require. I believe that if you shoot a lot of rounds in semi autos like I do, then recoil springs/buffers should be replaced on some schedule to help keep unnecessary wear to a minimum. Most don't require a real detail stripping to accomplish that.

DancesWithSquirrels · Post by **DancesWithSquirrels** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:34 am

I am one of those curious tinkerers and I like to know what makes things work especially my guns. I accept the consequences that this some times brings.

Dirt and grime gets in to places where it is not easily removed by routine field stripping and cleaning. Eventually the buildup can affect performance. I believe that detail stripping and cleaning is sometimes needed and doing so feeds my tinkerer's curiosity.

If I don't have the necessary knowledge to do a detail strip then I will take the gun to a gunsmith but I would much rather do it myself.

DWS

Post by **Bullseye** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:56 pm

Yes for me. I just like to know what condition a firearm is in before I go out and shoot it. It establishes a baseline for wear and overall condition. I want to get all the shipping preservative out of the pistol. It will thicken over time and cause malfunctions. I don't want to attribute failures to the wrong causes. Deep cleaning gives me piece of mind.

R,
Bullseye

Python · Post by **Python** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:53 pm

only if you suspect a specific issue

My issue is if I feel that the trigger is getting gritty or the revolver just does not feel like butter as it was.

I do not detail strip(remove all components and clean individually).

In a S&W or a Colt, I remove the side plate.
In a Ruger I remove the trigger assy.

I go into the gun and spray your favorite oil into the crevasis and through the pins(bearing and rotating surfaces) and then blow it all out with 180 psi shop air.

That is all that I do to reclaim the butter trigger as I had before.

There is no real wear and tear by just removing the side plates if you know the proper way to remove them. Then go in and hydraulic all the crap out.

It has worked for me for all the time that I have used and abused a pistol.

Clarence;

KAZ · Post by **KAZ** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:38 am

Perhaps some (me) have misunderstood the term: "Detail Striping" I take it to mean down to what looks like a exploded parts view with trigger pin,springs,extractor plungers,disconnectors,sears,mag release,bolt stop,etc to the bare frame. I can't believe that level of detail could be good. Now, if for example you are experiencing extraction problems then all components should be detailed of that assembly. Regards

stork · Post by **stork** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:48 am

kaz,
Thats the angle I took for your post. Mine (22's) get detail stripped once a year. The 45's get it twice a year. I look at it from the standpoint of not wanting very tight, match fitted parts taken apart any more than necessary. I do clean the chambers and some internals after every match however.

FWIW
Stork

Downeaster · Post by **Downeaster** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:45 pm

KAZ wrote:Perhaps some (me) have misunderstood the term: "Detail Striping" I take it to mean down to what looks like a exploded parts view with trigger pin,springs,extractor plungers,disconnectors,sears,mag release,bolt stop,etc to the bare frame. I can't believe that level of detail could be good. Now, if for example you are experiencing extraction problems then all components should be detailed of that assembly. Regards

Yes, that's exactly what I had in mind when I said "detail strip". And Stork's comment about unnecessary wear of fitted parts is what I was concerned about. Thanks for clarifying my point.

stalkingbear · Post by **stalkingbear** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:43 am

I'm going to ruffle some feathers but I believe most people shouldn't strip past field stripping. The obvious exceptions are people like yall who already know exactly how to get them back together. You wouldn't believe how many dozens upon dozens of firearms I've had brought to me in an box over the years where the owner took them apart but couldn't get them back together. Yes I do charge for reassembly of such firearms. I say detail strip ONLY if you have a problem.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 11:13 am

If it ain't broke, it don't really need to be fixed. If I have a problem, yes but only as far as needed to correct the problem. No sense in taking things apart, some people will never be able to put them back together again. Worked as a service tech for years on Yamaha, Stihl, Toro and Lawnboy and other related products and can not remember how many came in in a cardboard box plus had parts missing. They would ask for an estimate and standardize answer was, I will not rip you off but every time I find a part missing and then have to go get one or put the job aside and order it, you will pay for my honest time involved. More than one tim I can remember telling a customer, had you brought that in in one piece I could have done it for a C note less. That goes with all types of mechanisms. I carry 2 of 3 guns at all times an SA Micro Compact and a V-10 and a KelTec P3AT, usually one of the .45's plus the .380, and expect them to work if I need them. Recently had done some sight work on the Micro and had the top end off, so cleaned and lubed as it was already apart. Was at the range shooting it and when done just reloaded it and holstered it as usual, guy next to me said, Now you have to take it home and clean it, told him, No, now I know it works, when I brought it out here I expected it to work but was not sure until I fired it. If I do ever have to use it someone will get shot with a slightly dirty gun, toooooo bad,

lucam · Post by **lucam** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:19 pm

Well. It's my nature to take things apart. It's also my nature to get everything just perfect. Detail strips make me confident that everything is in good shape. I don't get the opportunity to shoot as much as I like so I'd hate to have a day ruined because of a mechanical failure. I also enjoy becoming familiar with parts. I used to be a Ford auto tech, and at our shop used to have drum brake reassembly races. It got to be we were doing them around 45 seconds. Not that we'd do it around a customer's car. It's a good way to familiarize yourself with parts and the concepts of a mechanical device.

I say do it now and then. No use having a problem when it could be avoided. If you get in over your head get some assistance and learn how to do it.

stork · Post by **stork** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 11:01 am

Mine get detailed 2x per year. Once before indoor season and once before outdoor season. In between the MKII's get the bolt removed and the upper taken off and thoroughly brushed and flushed. Before every shooting session they get lightly oiled with Red Oil. About every 2 weeks the chamber gets brushed out.

45's get a little different treatment, but not much. Still detailed 2x per year but the slide gets detailed monthly due to accumulation of crud under the extractor, with the exception of I try not to remove the barrel and bushing from the slide to maintain the tight bushing fit. Any leading in the barrel gets the brush & choreboy treatment while still in the slide. I adhere to the philosophy that you can tell a Bullseye shooter by the amount of oil dripping from his elbow. They get oiled before and during every session.

FWIW
Stork

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:31 pm

If I have or suspect a specific issue, I look for it right now. I average about 100-150 rounds per gun on a range visit, and I field strip clean ASAP afterwards.

I never do a complete detail strip. Parts that can't be seen without partial detail strip, like the firing pin and rebound spring assembly on Ruger Mark pistols, get looked at about every 3-4 cleanings.

One point here is that I have stainless guns. If they were blue, I would likely strip them down farther and more often.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:29 pm

Interesting thread. I've never had a gun that I felt needed stripping down to clean. Break actions, bolt actions are too simple. Some years ago, I did have a MKII stainless, but still never had to do more than a field strip. But now I have a new 22/45 MKIII, blued. Will it need more? I've only fired 22 rounds in it so not problems yet.

I read somewhere that brake cleaner can be used to wash down internals without taking them apart. True? What happens to plastic with brake cleaner? I have air to blow things out, but 180# seems excessive to me. Maybe 40-50#? What is the reccommended procedure to clean out all the powder residue and wax build-up that seems to gum up .22's? I'm building a bullet trap for use in my shop so will be shooting a lot more...soon.

Georgezilla · Post by **Georgezilla** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 3:05 pm

I know from experience that brake cleaner will melt any plastic that has polysteren in it (was trying to strip the paint off some models), but I'm not sure about the polymer frame on your pistol. I would advise against using compressed air unless you are going to re-oil all the parts. Even when you have drained them recently and use a dehumidifier compressors still tend to blow out moisture.

I don't employ any real trick to deep cleaning a .22 pistol. Just take all the parts out of the pistol and scrub them down with a tooth brush and hoppe's #9, wipe them and oil them with a very light coat of weapon oil.

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Opinion Poll

Should you routinely detail strip a weapon for cleaning?

Opinion Poll

Detail Stripping