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Bullseye, I'm going to pester you with another question. Can you remove the trigger assembly on a Mark II without first removing the hammer pivot pin and those parts first? The reason I'm asking is that I plan to put that Volquartsen sear in first and see how I like it and then go back later and put the Marvel trigger in. I assume also that the trigger will have to be taken out and put back in at least a couple of times to get the adjustment right.

Blindpig wrote: Can you remove the trigger assembly on a Mark II without first removing the hammer pivot pin and those parts first? The reason I'm asking is that I plan to put that Volquartsen sear in first and see how I like it and then go back later and put the Marvel trigger in. I assume also that the trigger will have to be taken out and put back in at least a couple of times to get the adjustment right.

The answer is no. The trigger can't be removed on a Mark II or III without removing the hammer pin and the all the bolt catch parts. A Mark I trigger can be removed this way because that pistol doesn't have the bolt catch parts.

To replace the sear first you'll have to remove these pins anyway. You won't have to remove the trigger to replace the sear, just the back side of the disconnector bar. Nor will you have to remove the sear to replace the trigger. You will have to remove and replace the hammer and hammer pin for both.

You can do the replacements, just take your time.

R,
Bullseye

Bullseye, thanks much for your reply. I thought that might be the case but was just looking for a short cut. No such luck, huh!

Blindpig,
While trying to adjust the pretravel screw on my Radar modified trigger in my MK111 I discovered that if I left the bolt stop and bolt stop plunger out when installing the trigger I could remove and replace the trigger without removing the hammer pin.
Just be sure to put the bolt stop and plunger back in when you get through with the adjustments on the trigger.

Hey, Boomer, thanks for the tip, I'll try that. Can you put the mainspring housing back in the frame without the receiver in place so you can make your trigger adjusments by cocking the trigger and then catching it as it releases to get the pre- and over-travel adjustments correct?

Yes, installing the mainspring into the frame is a good way to check and adjust the trigger. Once you have it adjusted where you want it, then put the whole thing together and try it again. That way you'll check for any differences when the receiver installed.

R,
Bullseye

Blindpig,
Yes, you can put the mainspring housing back in while checking your adjustments but, leave the spring out while checking the overtravel adjustment.Put the mainspring back in for a final looksee before putting the receiver/frame back together.
You want the sear to release with a minimum of space between the sear and hammer when the hammer goes forward to strike the firing pin. If you cock the hammer by hand( with the receiver off the frame) and release it by pulling the trigger with only finger pressure on the hammer you will be able to see if there is any contact between the two when the sear releases the hammer.
Set the overtravel to where the trigger releases the sear and the hammer falls without any contact between the rear edge of the sear and the rounded part of the hammer just above the hook.
It is possible to set the overtravel screw to where the hammer falls but the part of the hammer just above the hook will still rub on the rear edge of the sear which, with a lot of use, will round off the rear edge of the sear.

Boomer, thanks a bunch for your help and advice!