Dr. Bullseye's Troubleshooting page.

The place to discuss the inner workings of firearms.

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Bullseye
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Post by Bullseye » Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:11 pm

The reason the 5/16" drill bit option is on the troubleshooting page is because not always will inserting the bolt stop pin from the top of the receiver align the upper and lowers for easing the insertion of the mainspring housing, there are some receivers that are just too tight and need some extra persuasion to mate up properly; hence the tapered drill bit to drift them together a bit more forcefully.

This is what the OP experienced was a tightly fitted upper and lower.

R,
Bullseye
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Phantom99
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Post by Phantom99 » Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:35 am

Something about taking a hammer to to a gun to disassemble it makes some cringe. :D
Or is it having a gun that needs to be beaten into submission on a regular basis?
Ha Ha: There are so many segues possible in that question greener. :roll: :twisted:
I'm just saying that they shoot better when they know who is the boss. :roll:
I'm in complete agreement.

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Post by Phantom99 » Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:36 am

Bullseye wrote:The reason the 5/16" drill bit option is on the troubleshooting page is because not always will inserting the bolt stop pin from the top of the receiver align the upper and lowers for easing the insertion of the mainspring housing, there are some receivers that are just too tight and need some extra persuasion to mate up properly; hence the tapered drill bit to drift them together a bit more forcefully.

This is what the OP experienced was a tightly fitted upper and lower.

R,
Bullseye
That was my experience, & the solution, simple as it is, was a God send.

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Post by Phantom99 » Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:58 am

greener wrote:
Phantom99 wrote:What ever Ruger's intent vis-a-vis field stripping; if you end up replacing trigger, hammer, sear, extractor, firing pin & removing the LCI & magazine interlock, you'll be an expert Mark III repairman once you figure out how to easily reinstall the mainspring housing. But a third hand would really be handy. No pun intended. :!:

You may have a lot less hair when finished, but a thorough understanding of that pistol.

I usually have necessary tools in my range bag; for the Ruger, I'll never leave home without the two faced mallet & my 'special' 5/16" drill bit either.
I'm hardly and expert. I've done 2 MKIII's, 2 MKII's and a 1973 Standard. Only one hammer. I've seen no need to replace firing pins and extractors, they all work. I've disassembled and cleaned one mainspring.

I use the tech stuff here just to remind me what I need to do.
Greener: I replaced the firing pin and extractor after reading numerous articles on mods related to problems other owners experienced with this pistol line. Failures to extract, fire, et al. I intended to clean up the trigger pull anyway--iffy as stock, for target shooting, and while I was in there figured I may as well get ahead of problems others had encountered. YMMV, I am well pleased with the results here.

Thanks again to all for your valuable insights & assistance.

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