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I recently bought a springfield mil-spec that I am going to use as my wad gun for bullseye shooting. I know it is going to need some work to shoot the way it needs to, and I just wanted to get some opinions on what parts to get, and what work to have done. One of the things I often hear people say is get rid of the factory hammer and sear, because they are MIM parts. Also is there any chance the stock barrels in these guns could shoot well at 50 yard with a well fitted bushing?

I have a mil-spec that shoots great with the stock bbl... i did replace the bushing on it for a tighter fitting one. I still have the stock hammer and sear but put a long trigger in it... its pretty accurate but could be better with the frame rails tightened up up a bit I think, and better sights.

A stock barrel can work but it will need a throat job to function well with wadcutter ammo. However the stock barrels are hit or miss accuracy-wise. If you want a tack driver, and I don't even know why you wouldn't with the whole going the Wad Gun route, then you want the whole enchilada. Fit the slide, get a good Bar-Sto or Kart match barrel, heavy match bushing, what ever sight package you prefer, maybe a full-length Bo-Mar sight rib with a tuner (if you can find one). Don't fuss around with a stock barrel if you are going to have the slide fitted (tightened) to the frame. Get a match barrel and fit it to the frame and slide with the proper centering on the firing pin and with the lower lugs cut right for smooth operation, otherwise a poor fitting job will result in three-point jams. Plan on spending around three grand for a quality wad gun, depending on who builds it.

R,
Bullseye

I think I will just use a Kart barrel and not mess with the stock one based on what you said. How much does the slide to frame fit account for accuracy, assuming that a quality well fit barrel and bushing were being used.

How much does the slide to frame fit account for accuracy,

About 30%. Remember a 1911 is a dynamic pistol and needs all the parts tuned in a match pistol to really get the best accuracy out of it. Once you tighten up the slide to frame fit, which usually requires some rail lowering, that factory barrel's lugs were cut to match the stock rail height. Once they're lowered you start messing with firing pin hit location on the primers because now the barrel is not centered where it used to be in respect to that frame which was just modified. Inconsistent detonations can occur in this situation. First you tighten the rails, then you cut the barrel's lower lugs to match it. After that is done then you start working on the barrel hood and upper lugs.

R,
Bullseye

Thanks, that all makes sense. I want to spend as little as possible, but realize building a wad gun is not something you can do for cheap.

I have a few more questions. I want to replace the mainspring housing to get rid of the ILS safety, but am not sure what a good replacement spring weight would be. The trigger on my gun is actually pretty good, so I don't think I am going to mess with the hammer and sear. I am wanting a long trigger also, and was wondering what the difference is between a long trigger, and a Videki long trigger, both models are Cylinder&Slide brand. Thanks in advance for the help.

If you just want to replace the Springfield ILS mainspring housing with another standard version you can. The spring and cap in an ILS version is shorter and heavier than a regular mainspring, and the ILS mainspring cap is longer too. To compensate for using a shorter spring the ILS mainspring is twenty-eight pounds. A normal GI mainspring is twenty-three pounds but the overall coil length is longer. You can use any 1911 mainspring housing profile and replace all the internal parts with the twenty-three pound spring, GI spring cap, cap pin, and mainspring housing pin retainer. Or simply buy a complete 1911 mainspring housing with the #23 pound spring installed.

As for triggers, both are essentially the same kind of lightweight adjustable target trigger. It is just that the Videcki version has relief holes cut through the shoe. The holes are designed to lighten up the trigger to prevent trigger bounce, but since each version you mentioned is made of lightweight aluminum the holes are really there more for style.

R,
Bullseye