Clarks Custom Bushing in Ruger Mark III 22/45

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zxracer3
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Clarks Custom Bushing in Ruger Mark III 22/45

Post by zxracer3 » Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm

I am trying to determine how the bushing is supposed to fit in a Ruger mark III 22/45?

After installing the bushing in a second Ruger Mark III 22/45 I noticed that the hammer frame pin rotates in the frame rather than the hammer rotating on the pin. I called them and spoke to several people and was finally referred to someone named Tom and he told me that the these bushing were never supposed to be installed in mark III and that both the hammer bushing in the hammer and the hammer on the hammer frame pin are supposed to rotate freely which neither of mine do. I had to press the bearing into both hammer’s so that’s why that one doesn’t rotate but when installing the hammer frame pin I was able to push it through but somehow the tolerances are tight enough so that the whole pin rotates. So what is your experiences after intalling the bushing?

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Post by piasashooter » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:12 pm

I have a Ruger MKIII with the Clark hammer bushing and pin. With my gun the bushing can rotate in the hammer, and the hammer bushing easily rotates on the hammer pin. I have seen where other people say that the bushing was a tight press fit into the hammer, but that was it. I believe that the Clark kits do say fitting may be required, although mine didn't. It's ok for the hammer bushing to be tight in the hammer, but you do need the bushing to turn freely on the hammer pin.

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Bullseye
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Post by Bullseye » Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:04 pm

Sometimes that does happen, when it does, I use some silicon carbide lapping compound and work it in the bushing with the pin. The lapping compound will polish both the pin and inside of the bushing for a smooth exact fit. Once fit to size be sure to remove all traces of the lapping compound or the process of cutting will continue with normal use.

You can also use ordinary toothpaste mixed with a little lightweight oil as a lapping compound for your pin if you don't have any commercial compound. The toothpaste will rinse out easily after your done. Just polish the surface of the pin where the bushing sits on the pin. Polish, clean, and check fit frequently. Once you get smooth movement on the pin without it turning in the frame you're there.

Paste rubbing compounds mixed with a little lightweight oil will work too.

I'm not surprised by Clark's response, they cannot assist you with disconnecting a factory safety device without possibly assuming some responsibility in the event of a mishap.

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zxracer3
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Post by zxracer3 » Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:44 pm

From what I read it was normal for the bushing to have to be pressed fit onto the hammer but I was unsure about the bushing fitment on the pin.

I'll have to do some polishing to smooth things up. Great tip with the compound! I was wondering how I was going to get something inside the bushing to smooth it up.

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blue68f100
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Post by blue68f100 » Tue Jan 18, 2011 4:23 pm

If your bushing fit tight to the hammer, this is a good thing. Sometime depending on how you put the bushing in you may have a burr. I ended up using a counter sink on mine to free the pin up. The bushing/hammer fit that is loose I use Loctite to lock the 2 together. So far they have held up good and have not come loose since installed.
David

SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911

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