1911 oiling

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stork
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1911 oiling

Post by stork » Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:25 pm

Bullseye,
My first try on Photobucket. Lets hope I didn't goof up too bad.

http://s838.photobucket.com/albums/zz309/stork_BE/

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"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.” – George Washington

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Georgezilla
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Post by Georgezilla » Mon Feb 08, 2010 12:18 am

Thanks Stork! Awesome job. If you want your images to show up directly in your post, you can scroll over the images on photo bucket and copy/paste the IMG codes in your post.

Out of curiosity, why does the barrel link have to be against the barrel? Could one just hole the plug against the thing the barrel link goes in (sorry, dont know the name of it)?

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Post by Bullseye » Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:33 am

Stork,

Thanks for those photographs, they look really nice. I can use them to create the teardown/reassemble sequence for the post. I'll copy the pictures and put them on my server so your photobucket account doesn't get too many hits for bandwidth. I won't get to these for a day or so,

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bbl link position

Post by stork » Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:20 am

Georgezilla,
The barrel link should be held against the barrel in order for the slide/bbl/spring assembly to slide smoothly into their corresponding recess' in the frame.

If the link is allowed to drop, the tension from the recoil spring guide puts too much tension on the link and makes it much more difficult to align the bottom hole in the link with the slide stop holes. If your link is slightly long, it can also wedge itself against the inside of the dust cover.

Once the slide/bbl/spring assembly is captured in the frame, the rear of the recoil spring guide contacts the frame and allows the link to drop free without any tension.

It just makes it a lot easier to insert the slide stop.

I tried copying & pasting the images in a new post, but no dice. I must be doing something wrong and just don't have the time to play with it right now.

FWIW
"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.” – George Washington

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Post by Bullseye » Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:24 pm

Just checking the linking abilities of the photobucket account

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Post by perazzi » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:13 pm

Bullseye wrote:Just checking the linking abilities of the photobucket account

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I looked over the pics. pretty good! But, this one, I have a hard time figuring out where your oiling? is it the white spots??

On the others, I can see where the oil actually is...

BE, if you have time :roll: maybe you could attach arrows :D
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Post by Bullseye » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:20 pm

Yes, I may do that later when I copy the pictures onto the guntalk server. But if you look carefully in the rail slots you can see beads of oil (shiny white lines) in several places along the length of the rail. They are not that obvious to the casual eye, unless you know what to look for.

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perazzi
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Post by perazzi » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:24 pm

Gotcha...
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Post by montveil » Fri Feb 26, 2010 2:13 pm

Maybe this would a good sticky
montveil in the NC mountains

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Post by bigfatdave » Fri Feb 26, 2010 4:14 pm

Great service for a new 1911 owner!
What's the opinion on grease for rails & pins? I've gotten into the habit of using grease on all my other auto-loaders in a lot of spots, am I making a mistake doing the same on my new 1911-pattern pistol?

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Post by Bullseye » Fri Feb 26, 2010 5:17 pm

Maybe this would a good sticky
I thought so too and it is a sticky: http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... php?t=2040

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Post by Downeaster » Fri Feb 26, 2010 7:00 pm

Question: After applying oil in all the spots shown, do you wipe off the excess?

Based on my (admittedly limited) experience, that seems like an awful lot of oil.
An empty weapon is just a very expensive hammer.

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Post by Bullseye » Fri Feb 26, 2010 7:31 pm

Generally, no. Although, if the oil is visibly running down the outside and onto the grips I'll wipe off a little.

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Post by stork » Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:35 am

What's the opinion on grease for rails & pins?
Grease just is too thick. My choice of lube was due to all metal to metal parts fitting extremely tight. My primary wad gun has over 38,000 rounds through it and still has NO discernible movement either laterally or vertically.

I also used a lot of lube so it would show up better on the pictures. I normally use less than 1/2 of what's pictured. If I used that much, it would have just been forced out of the pistol and all over my hand. Not a good thing when you're trying to maintain a hard grip.

If your 1911 has not been "smithed" by a good Bullseye gunsmith it probably isn't as tight and grease may be an alternative.

FWIW[/quote]
"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.” – George Washington

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Post by Mr. Nail » Wed May 12, 2010 11:48 am

I like oil you can spray. I tear down my gun and spray the whole thing. I just kinda mist spray, then I wipe everything. They light sprays that get into any action will do em more good than harm. The percution of shooting it will blow all or at least enough of that spray right back out. I even wipe the inside of the barrell with a little oil if I know its gonna set a good while. I always try to remember that my first bullett is going to be slik though cuase it will throw your accurassy till it dries from shooting. I dont know if this is the best advise but I've never had any problemoes...

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