Ruger troubleshooting chart - Seeking inputs

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:28 pm

Hey gang,

Here's a rough draft of a new webpage I want to add to the forum.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm

Take a look and tell me what you think. Keep in mind this is only a very rough draft. I also want your suggestions for other symptoms you've experienced. Later I will add links with pictures to help anyone who's actually using the chart to diagnose and solve their problem.

One thing I plan on doing later is combining all the symptoms so they are aligned together by part (i.e. mainspring with mainspring, bolt with bolt, hammer with hammer, etc.)

R,
Bullseye

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:55 pm

Bullseye,

That looks pretty good. But don't forget those of us that have the older MK Is and Standard Autos. Although much is the same, there are a few minor differences.

The only trouble shooting suggestions I can add would be a section on extraction and ejection. You guys helped me a buch on my recent troubles.

And feeding problems.

Joe

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:02 pm

Good point. I will add a section for extraction and ejection problems.

I can also see a need for having some separate segments dedicated to model specific problems; Like Mark I, Mark II, Mark III, 22/45.

Thanks for the input Joe!

R,
Bullseye

boomer47 · Post by **boomer47** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:12 pm

Bullseye,

Looks good. Here are some of mine. Use as you see fit.

One thing I have run into three times on the bolt dragging problem is that the screws that came with the Ruger scope mount were a tad long and the rear screw just barely bore on the recoil spring enough to cause a drag. A few licks with a file and a little cold blue on the end of the screw takes care of it.
Maybe not a biggie but something to look at after all else fails.

Also, I stll use and like my idea of crimping one coil of the safety detent balls spring down to a tight fit on the balls shaft then spreading the last coil on the other end of the spring out enough to make a tight fit in the safety's hole to keep the ball and spring from going south when removing/installing the safety.

One of the handiest gadgets I've made is to grind a taper on the blind end of a 5/16th in. drill bit and drive it through the bolt stop hole from the top after installing the receiver on a new/tight pistol and having trouble getting it lined up enough to install the mainspring housing/bolt stop. Saves hammering on the housing assy. to get the bolt stop in.

Good show.You get this all together and Ruger will be reprinting it in the new pistol manuals.

R,Jack

Post by **Bullseye** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 12:03 am

Another set of great suggestions. I've already incorporated some of these and will include the others when I figure which section I'm going to cover the detent ball on the remedy chart.

I've regrouped the symptoms and added a breaker line to distinguish the subcategories.

Keep the suggestions coming!

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 8:38 am

Nice chart my friend, your talents never seem to amaze me. Wish I had something to add but my 22/45's never really seem to have any problems other than the ones that are operator induced. Or maybe I have had problems but have not really paid that much attention to them. Us old mechanics have a tendency to just keep on running that way and ignoring slight problems of no real consequence. Or maybe it's just the Polak in me showing through.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:02 pm

(We interrupt this thread for the following comments:)

bearandoldman,

We must be of kindred spirit. I'm a sorta home type mechanic as well, used to keep all the families vehicles and mechanical gadgets running untill they computerized everything. Now I'm barely able to change the spark plugs on them. But I keep trying and do what I can, when I can.

I'm also of Polish extraction. No PC here, remember the old Polok jokes, I loved them. Oh well, now you can't joke about anything without offending someone

.

(Now back to our regularly schedualed thread.)

Joe

boomer47 · Post by **boomer47** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:32 pm

Bullseye,
Got one more that won't apply in a lot of cases but:
If you are going to remove the factory iron sights and install a scope/red dot as the only sighting system and want a little neater looking installation, just reverse the Ruger mount and use only two screws to hold the mount. This way the front edge of the mount is square with the front edge of the receiver where it meets the barrel.

Looks a lot better to me and I don't think the .22 recoil will ever be a factor using only the two screws.

Bt the way, you asked for suggestions and that is all I'm doing. Use what I send or don't. Won't bother me one way or the other but it sure looks like you are going to have something here that all the other forums will be referring people to for help and thats great.

R,Jack

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:32 pm

J Miller wrote:(We interrupt this thread for the following comments:

I'm also of Polish extraction. No PC here, remember the old Polok jokes, I loved them. Oh well, now you can't joke about anything without offending someone .

(Now back to our regularly schedualed thread.)

Joe

I know just about all of the Polak jokes and have told them also, don't relly care if I offend anyone, Guess that is just the prerogative of being an odlman and carrying a 1911 in my back pocket. Ther are more of us chosen ones around than we realize. Young guys never mess with us old guys, if they kick our butt, they can bragg about beating an old man and if they get beat they keep their mouths shut.

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:04 pm

boomer47 wrote:Bullseye,
Got one more that won't apply in a lot of cases but:
If you are going to remove the factory iron sights and install a scope/red dot as the only sighting system and want a little neater looking installation, just reverse the Ruger mount and use only two screws to hold the mount. This way the front edge of the mount is square with the front edge of the receiver where it meets the barrel.

Looks a lot better to me and I don't think the .22 recoil will ever be a factor using only the two screws.

Bt the way, you asked for suggestions and that is all I'm doing. Use what I send or don't. Won't bother me one way or the other but it sure looks like you are going to have something here that all the other forums will be referring people to for help and thats great.

R,Jack

Jack,

I've already used some of the suggestions you've sent - Keep them coming!

I found a different brand of scope mount that is shorter and gives that clean look. Tactical Solutions has some different rails that allow for more scope mounting flexibility.

These rails fit the standard Ruger hole patterns and will install on all model receivers.

TacSol scope rails

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:31 pm

What I have done on all mt Rugr or Wiegnd rails is add another slot in between tge front 2 screw holes. This gives you more otions to mount most red dots farther back but still keep he rear sight mounted, Easy to do with an 1/8 router bit in my radial arm saw.

boomer47 · Post by **boomer47** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:05 pm

Bullseye,
I looked at those Tactical Solution mounts and called customer service. They are only available in anodized black.
Brownell's has one that looks as good and is available in matte silver. I'm going to try one as I am tired of trying to strip and polish anodized parts to match the stainless pistols.
I like all the extra cross slots cause I'm not good enough with the tools to cut the extra slots in a Ruger mount without it looking like Freddie got hold of it with his chain saw.

http://tinyurl.com/hzsbp (Brownell's)

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 7:18 pm

boomer47 wrote:Bullseye,

I like all the extra cross slots cause I'm not good enough with the tools to cut the extra slots in a Ruger mount without it looking like Freddie got hold of it with his chain saw.

http://tinyurl.com/hzsbp (Brownell's)

Jack, like the looks of that one, may have to add some more slots in mine, although the on extra I put in seems to get the job done. Use my radial arm saq by tilting it vertical and using it as a milling machine with the rail clamped down. Works good on the aluminum and just blacken it with a magic marker. A little crude but effective.
Stock rails do not give many optiona as far as monting postion,.

Post by **Bullseye** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 12:10 am

All those slots are in the Picatinny style, gives a lot more flexibility for mounting optics.

R,
Bullseye

boomer47 · Post by **boomer47** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:34 pm

Just got an e-mail from Brownell's saying the 4 1/2 in. mount was shipped. I'll post a pic when I get it installed.
I did not think to check the price on the longer mount with the built in rear sight but it sure looks good.
But, I can't see where you gain anything with the longer mount over the Ruger rear sight and mount except more leeway with mounting the scope.