Hi guys,
First time poster and wanted to say hi. This is a great forum thanks to Bullseye and everybody that posts here. I thought I would jump in.
So does anyone have a roll trigger in their Mark II's. I have a crisp 2.5 lbs in mine now and would like to change it. I have two ideas but wanted to see what might have been done already.
Thanks
Mark II
Roll triggers
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
No, a roll trigger could be best described as one with a 'creep' feel to it but the creep is consistent all the way through the pull before the trigger breaks. Some folks prefer the feel of the sear moving before the trigger break. This allows for the start of the trigger squeeze sequence and then make minor changes to sight alignment through the shot process without any interruption of the trigger finger's movement. For some this type of trigger breaking process helps establish a more consistent routine for sustained fire bullseye pistol events.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
Roll triggers
Hi guys,
Bullseye is on the same page as to what I'm looking for. Don't get me wrong Recumbent I think that trigger style has alot of merit. Maybe down the road but for now I'm trying to make a roll trigger.
So I have tried putting a BB under the trigger plunger spring. I know most people go lighter but I was trying to get a two stage feel but nothing moved. Went to the hardware store and picked up a couple of different springs, cut them down but still can't get the feel I'm looking for. So my next thought was to take off some material on the hammer face were the sear sits against. What do you think?
Thks,
mark II
Bullseye is on the same page as to what I'm looking for. Don't get me wrong Recumbent I think that trigger style has alot of merit. Maybe down the road but for now I'm trying to make a roll trigger.
So I have tried putting a BB under the trigger plunger spring. I know most people go lighter but I was trying to get a two stage feel but nothing moved. Went to the hardware store and picked up a couple of different springs, cut them down but still can't get the feel I'm looking for. So my next thought was to take off some material on the hammer face were the sear sits against. What do you think?
Thks,
mark II
Before any removal of material a measurement of the hammer's hook height is in order. Typically a Ruger stock hammer runs .035" -.040" in hook height. This is plenty of hook for a roll trigger. Typically a minimum of .025 is considered acceptable for a roll trigger in a 1911. What does your hammer measure?
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
Roll triggers
Hi All,
I have no way of measuring the hook, I will have to borrow a caliper. I don't want to remove material from the hook but from the face of the hammer that way the sear will have more travel on the underside of the hook. I would love to have the take up of the disconnecter and release of the sear feel the same but don't know if that is possible. So maybe my idea above is a close second. Ideas
Thanks,
mark II
I have no way of measuring the hook, I will have to borrow a caliper. I don't want to remove material from the hook but from the face of the hammer that way the sear will have more travel on the underside of the hook. I would love to have the take up of the disconnecter and release of the sear feel the same but don't know if that is possible. So maybe my idea above is a close second. Ideas
Thanks,
mark II
Yes, I understood from your earlier post that you intended to remove material from the face under the hook to increase the depth. I'm just suggesting that this action may not really be necessary based on the average depth of Ruger hammer hooks, but the only way to know for sure is by measuring the hook height first.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
Well I found a set of calipers and measured the hook height. I came up with .022".
I wanted to add a pre-travel screw to the trigger but I only have an 8-32 tap and there is not enough room so I went ahead and tapped the trigger guard. It feels like it will make a big improvement.
I also wanted to lower my red dot. So I found a low scope mount and JB Welded it into the open sight dovetail. Waited a day then went shooting. Things were going a long great, I liked it seating so low seemed to help with the shakeness. Maybe just in my head but I was shooting good. Any how it loosened up on me. I didn't degrease it before hand which I should of done and I think that was the cause. I liked it low so I will try again.
I went to a machinist and he wanted $100.00 to make something up. Maybe check on dovetailing the reciever. Thanks for your help.
mark II
I wanted to add a pre-travel screw to the trigger but I only have an 8-32 tap and there is not enough room so I went ahead and tapped the trigger guard. It feels like it will make a big improvement.
I also wanted to lower my red dot. So I found a low scope mount and JB Welded it into the open sight dovetail. Waited a day then went shooting. Things were going a long great, I liked it seating so low seemed to help with the shakeness. Maybe just in my head but I was shooting good. Any how it loosened up on me. I didn't degrease it before hand which I should of done and I think that was the cause. I liked it low so I will try again.
I went to a machinist and he wanted $100.00 to make something up. Maybe check on dovetailing the reciever. Thanks for your help.
mark II
Hi Bullseye,
What do you suggest I do to get closer to the roll trigger? I had a measurement of .022" on the hammer hook, should I take material of the hammer face? Is there anything I can do at the trigger plunger spring to stiffen it up, I've tried cutting springs, adding a BB to take up space and when it gets to stiff it locks up. Right now it's take up the trigger, very little presure, then bang, about 2.5 lbs. I think I get the dot on the bull and snatch the trigger there is no room to squeeze it. Any advice.
Thank you for all your help.
mark II
What do you suggest I do to get closer to the roll trigger? I had a measurement of .022" on the hammer hook, should I take material of the hammer face? Is there anything I can do at the trigger plunger spring to stiffen it up, I've tried cutting springs, adding a BB to take up space and when it gets to stiff it locks up. Right now it's take up the trigger, very little presure, then bang, about 2.5 lbs. I think I get the dot on the bull and snatch the trigger there is no room to squeeze it. Any advice.
Thank you for all your help.
mark II
I wouldn't attempt to take material off of the trigger face if you don't have the right polishing stones for the job. Even if you do have the trigger stones, do you have a fixture to keep it all square as you cut? Then there's the care needed to avoid changing the hammer angle and ultimately the hammer/sear engagement.
Before I get too far ahead of myself, did I ask what kind of hammer and sear you have in your pistol? Is it factory originals or are they VQ replacement parts?
R,
Bullseye
Before I get too far ahead of myself, did I ask what kind of hammer and sear you have in your pistol? Is it factory originals or are they VQ replacement parts?
R,
Bullseye
Hi Bullseye,
I think they are factory originals, I bought the gun second hand. I guess I'm going to leave it like it is I don't think I can get what I'm looking for with a ruger. I did have the barrel tappered to lighten it up more, it's down to 2.4 lbs with the UD on it. Cleaned the crown up myself and getting a nice group with one flier. I always have that one flier
. I'll have to find out if its my first or last shot. Doesn't matter much at 50 ft.
Thanks
I think they are factory originals, I bought the gun second hand. I guess I'm going to leave it like it is I don't think I can get what I'm looking for with a ruger. I did have the barrel tappered to lighten it up more, it's down to 2.4 lbs with the UD on it. Cleaned the crown up myself and getting a nice group with one flier. I always have that one flier
. I'll have to find out if its my first or last shot. Doesn't matter much at 50 ft.Thanks
Have another shooter watch your target through a scope as you fire your string. That way they can monitor your group for the flier. Your spotter can see when the flier is happening and if it is consistent in the shot groupings. It could be shooter related, first or last shot, or something mechanical in the feeding.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye