Power custom fixture and Ruger MkIII

The place to discuss the inner workings of firearms.

Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators

Post Reply
HisSoldier
New member
New member
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:23 pm
Location: North Oregon Coast

Power custom fixture and Ruger MkIII

Post by HisSoldier » Tue Mar 17, 2009 12:28 am

I have a Power Custom sear stoning jig series 1, and wish to either stone the sear and/or hammer or buy a Volquartsen sear. I saw that Power Custom sells a fixture for the Ruger MkI and II but not the MkIII. I also read somewhere that it can't be stoned by a normal person but only extra special people with extra special skills and equipment. Has anyone here used the Power Custom stoning jig successfully? Can the MkI /MkIII fixture be used? Thanks

User avatar
toyfj40
Master contributor
Master contributor
Posts: 672
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 11:32 am
Location: 76101

Post by toyfj40 » Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:18 am

welcome to the forum...

Google found this at Brownells...
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... spx?p=9853

I'll let others contribute "their Opinion"...
but my variety of experiences indicates that a precision 'jig'
is for the "experienced person" to be consistent and precise,
a 'jig' is not a substitute for practice and experience...

so, be your own judge of your ability...
but, No, I have no experience with the gadget...
-- toy

User avatar
bearandoldman
Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
Posts: 4194
Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
Location: Mid Michigan

Post by bearandoldman » Tue Mar 17, 2009 5:22 am

Can't really see how tthe fixture could be any different for a MarkIII, when all the pistols use the same sear??
At the cost and quality of a VQ sear would it be worth while in cost savings to purchase that fixture???
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
Image

HisSoldier
New member
New member
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:23 pm
Location: North Oregon Coast

Post by HisSoldier » Tue Mar 17, 2009 12:34 pm

Well, I already have the stoning jig, and know several people with Ruger MkIII's. It would be worth it to me, yes, if I knew that others had done it and that the fixture was available. Perhaps I'll email Power Custom. Thanks guys.

HisSoldier
New member
New member
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:23 pm
Location: North Oregon Coast

Post by HisSoldier » Tue Mar 17, 2009 12:42 pm

Well, for the record, I just called Power Custom and they said to use the MkI/MkII adaptor. I sorta thought that might be the case.

User avatar
bearandoldman
Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
Posts: 4194
Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
Location: Mid Michigan

Post by bearandoldman » Tue Mar 17, 2009 3:20 pm

HisSoldier wrote:Well, for the record, I just called Power Custom and they said to use the MkI/MkII adaptor. I sorta thought that might be the case.
In this day and age I would be very careful about doing world for hire for other people and their attorney. Watch out for Sue City Sue. Product liability is a dangerous place to be.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
Image

User avatar
Bullseye
Site Admin/Host
Site Admin/Host
Posts: 6382
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 12:23 pm
Location: USA

Post by Bullseye » Wed Mar 18, 2009 7:00 am

I have a PC Series 1 for Rugers and 1911s and a PC Series II for 10/22 trigger components. The hammer on a Mark III is functionally the same as their Mark I and II counterparts and uses the same PC adapters. The sear is the same between all the Ruger 22 Auto generations. There are some minor engagement issues to consider, especially with the older Mark I pistols, as the thumb safety also acts as a hammer cocked indicator. Ruger trigger components are sensitive to stoning, take care not to remove too much material or hammer follows and thumb safety issues can arise. If you have not been trained on stoning trigger dynamic components then it is not a good idea to experiment on other peoples firearms. Lastly, be sure to test a new trigger job with only two rounds in a magazine until you are absolutely positive that the weapon will not double or auto fire. Failing to do this procedure can cause a whole magazine can be expended in a blink of an eye. :shock:

R,
Bullseye
Image

HisSoldier
New member
New member
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:23 pm
Location: North Oregon Coast

Post by HisSoldier » Thu May 07, 2009 2:37 am

Well, I did it, first time for a trigger job. Polished the sides of everything, the sear and draw bar and hammer where they rub on the sides, removed two coils from the mainspring, polished the hammer strut end and, of course honed the hammer hook to .022 engagement. (Down from .030)

The sear I stoned with the ceramic stone and ran a very slight 45 degree secondary. What I got for all that besides a learning experience was a reduction of 1/2 lb. That's ok with me, but it's still higher than my Star FR sport which is 2 3/4 lb.
I also tapped the trigger for a combination overtravel screw plus fingertip pad I like to bring the point of contact of my fingertip a bit lower and add extra area for contact.

One of my 1911's will be next. :D

User avatar
Bullseye
Site Admin/Host
Site Admin/Host
Posts: 6382
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 12:23 pm
Location: USA

Post by Bullseye » Thu May 07, 2009 6:47 am

Sometimes it's not the weight reduction that counts but the crispness of pull. I can shoot a heavy trigger with a nice crisp pull just as well as a light one. But if the trigger feels squishy then I won't do well with it.

R,
Bullseye
Image

HisSoldier
New member
New member
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:23 pm
Location: North Oregon Coast

Post by HisSoldier » Thu May 07, 2009 10:35 am

Thanks to everyone who guided me in this. The pressure was on. My gunsmith told me to just buy the Volquartsen sear, but I had the PC jig and said I'd use that. He said to come back and get the Volquartsen after I screwed up my sear!

After being told I would screw it up I had to succeed! Worked late last night on it.

And this morning I open up the forum and find a thread about replacing the mainspring, and that there are special tools for that. :x I happened to have a selection of various sized ball bearing balls, and needed two of them, the original and one of the balls from my collection are hiding somewhere under one of the machines. The balls are .218" diameter I think, and most of my time was spent trying to stuff them in and hold them while replacing the pin.

HisSoldier
New member
New member
Posts: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 5:23 pm
Location: North Oregon Coast

Post by HisSoldier » Fri May 08, 2009 1:58 am

Taking Bullseye's advice I added the reset limit screw in the trigger. Suddenly it wouldn't accept a mag! The magazine would go to within 1/2" of full insertion and stop. It could be forced but then had to be whacked with a screw driver to get it out.

I looked it over and saw a white spot on the trigger, an extension that sticks into the mag well. The mag has a cutout for it, and it seems to be another lawyer deal. The trigger normally can't be pulled with the mag in part way.

When I limited the forward travel of the trigger with the reset screw it bound up on that trigger extension. So, I ground the projection off.

Works fine now. :lol:

Post Reply