MK2 DisConnector...

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:53 pm

I tend to Over-Describe some problems, I'll try to be brief,
but feel free to ask for more-info...

I bought a MK2-10" last fall (mfg ~84), it is "Used" but not "ABused".
The bore was shiney-clean and the chamber/muzzle were un-marred,
so I figgered the other parts and pieces would be replaceable...

I've changed-out the bolt-parts (firingPin, return-spring, ext-hook etc)
I also **thought** the hammer-hook (ie. sharp edge that engages the sear)
looked like it might have been modified/reduced a teenie-bit...
so I got a factory-hammer assembly from RimFireSports when I ordered
a VQ-sear and HogueGrips and Wigand-ScopeRail and "stuff"...

well, here's the problem... it tends to go FullAuto
BEFORE the above parts were ordered and replaced... and still does it.

I have the advice and co-examination of a couple guys from my Range/Club that
are Ruger-MK enthusiasts... and the conclusion is that I haven't changed
the "Disconnector", so that MUST BE IT

well, it seems that Ruger has the disconnector KA011 marked with an *
meaning that it is factory-fitable-part...

It was deduced that when the bolt is running-back and cocking the
hammer that the hammer is NOT being held-cocked.
... about 40% of the time, it fires "OK"
... about 40% of the time, it fires once and then NOT-cocked,
BUT the new cartridge just chambered will have a faint/wee little
firing pin mark, as from inertial thrust of the firing-pin coming forward.
... otherwise... I'd better only have 1-2-3 cartrides loaded as they
will be gone... as fast as a lawn-mower fires... not a fast pop-pop-pop,
but a FrpFrpFrp!!

It's an interesting experience... but the gun is not designed for it,
so it will cause other problems to continue...
On the PLUS-side... shooting SingleShot... it is a really nice pistol !!
and a contender-in-waiting to join my P512 as my Co-Favorite pistols.

So... ideas, suggestions... ??
1. anyone else experience anything similar to this ?
2. replace the original parts and ship it to Ruger ?
3. get a Disconnector (Brownells, ?) and hope to fix it myself ?
... EDIT: just checked, Disconnector-Part Not-Avail via Brownells ...
4. take a file to my disconnector and really mess things up

Thanks.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue May 30, 2006 5:49 pm

Yes, this happens from time to time, usually when someone alters the hammer hook/sear engagement without proper tools. Rugers are notoriously finicky about their hammer/sear engagement. Since you've replaced the hammer and sear (did you get a new hammer or a take off?) these may not be the problem. *If your hammer is a take off then it is suspect. Another possibility is a light mainspring. Perhaps the previous owner replaced it with one from a VQ kit. You can eliminate the disconnector by opening the bolt about 1/8 to 1/4" and squeeze the trigger. If the hammer falls then the disconnector is defective. If if doesn't, then the disconnector is doing its part. Unlike a 1911, the bolt can be away from the breech face and the disconnector still is good with a ruger. You are not likely to find a new disconnector anywhere but ruger; Radar bought the last ones Brownells had a few years back. I don't recommend altering your disconnector, if there's a problem likely too much metal has been removed already. Disconnectors work with particular bolts and maybe yours was fitted to a bolt that was on the edge of in specifications, but a new one is out of tolerance for that particular pistol/disconnector combination. If you cannot solve it by swapping new parts then sending it back to ruger for a tune up is the best option. They'll bring it back within factory specs and then you can go back and install the new VQ sear later.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Tue May 30, 2006 8:53 pm

Bullseye wrote:If your hammer is a take off then it is suspect.
Another possibility is a light mainspring.
You can eliminate the disconnector by opening the bolt about 1/8 to 1/4" and squeeze the trigger.
If the hammer falls then the disconnector is defective.

Thanks for the prompt-response.
A. pulling the bolt back about 1/16" will let the hammer fall...
pulling the bolt back right-at 1/8" gives a mild-bump in the trigger-pull,
BUT DOES NOT FALL. ... 3/16" and more... SOLID-resistance... no fall.
B. as far as I know, I ordered and received a Ruger-factory Hammer.
(early Dec 2005) RFSports sold it as:
$15.55 KA01801-100 Ruger MkII Factory Hammer Complete
C. when I listed the Bolt-parts changed, I did not include, but did replace
the Bolt-Return-Spring that rides on top of the bolt.
The Hammer-spring inside the mainspring/latch assembly is still original.
D. I have the VQ-sear installed and the hammer mentioned.
other parts replaced were ordered from Ruger with some spare-Mags.
E. hmmm... so... looks like I'd best just un-do my up-grade and contact
Ruger for some of their splendid customer-service...
F. Just to confirm, my #4 'file the disconnector' was a Joke.
Thanks again, BullsEye, I'll follow-up later. this is not on my front-burner
at the moment, but I'll progress as I can.

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Ripsaw · Post by **Ripsaw** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:31 am

I believe that it was on this forum that said any pistols retuned to Ruger for service will come back without any aftermarket parts that were owner installed (VQ triggers and sears, Clark bushings ect)

Unless you want ot forfit parts (Unless Ruger returns them) It would be best to
return it as it was originally from the factory.

Ruger will fix it to there factory specs and tolerances so one may be starting over in that aftermarket products alter the factory specs.

Ripsaw