M1 Rear Sight
Bullseye-
I cannot disassemble the rear sight of my M1 anymore, whereas I used to do it blindfolded back in the ROTC. (50 years DO make a differnce, I guess.) You see, I'll-- finally-- install my BSquare scope mount.
I keep on unscrewing the windage knob, but it just won't, see pictures. Before, once I had removed the horizontal bar lock, it was just a matter of unscrewing the windage knob off. But now, even when I try to pull it out to the right, it just won't. I even tried to pull out with a needle-nosed plier that small retaining screw (?) in the middle without using any force, and it still won't. What should I do?
M1 REAR SIGHT
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
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- Regular contributor
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- Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 11:02 pm
- Location: South California
M1 REAR SIGHT
A bad shot is often caused by a loose nut behind the buttplate
Jaegar,
Your pictures are a little fuzzy but the lock screw has to be removed from the windage knob before you can remove it off of the shaft. It is around the center of the hollow pin, the one with the slot on both sides.
Here's a link to a sight that shows how to disassemble a rear sight without the lockbar. http://www.surplusrifle.com/garand/rsdi ... /index.asp The elev knob locking screw is the one with the screwdriver inserted in it (figure 2). Or here at the CMP website http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/str ... ight3.html
That flat locking bar looks like it is broken off of the windage locking screw. Normally that flat piece is staked onto the locking screw.
You should still be able to remove it but you'll have to loosen that lock screw.
This M1 Combination tool has a split screwdriver end just for releasing the windage knob screw.
I don't have any more Garands with the lockbar style rear sights here, or I'd take some disassembly pictures for you.
R,
Bullseye
Your pictures are a little fuzzy but the lock screw has to be removed from the windage knob before you can remove it off of the shaft. It is around the center of the hollow pin, the one with the slot on both sides.
Here's a link to a sight that shows how to disassemble a rear sight without the lockbar. http://www.surplusrifle.com/garand/rsdi ... /index.asp The elev knob locking screw is the one with the screwdriver inserted in it (figure 2). Or here at the CMP website http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/str ... ight3.html
That flat locking bar looks like it is broken off of the windage locking screw. Normally that flat piece is staked onto the locking screw.
You should still be able to remove it but you'll have to loosen that lock screw.
This M1 Combination tool has a split screwdriver end just for releasing the windage knob screw.
I don't have any more Garands with the lockbar style rear sights here, or I'd take some disassembly pictures for you.
R,
Bullseye
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- Regular contributor
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 11:02 pm
- Location: South California
You said: That flat locking bar looks like it is broken off of the windage locking screw. Normally that flat piece is staked onto the locking screw.
And (as usual), you are correct: that windage locking screw had worked itself loose from the locking bar or spindle and remained inside.
I was able to (carefully) work it loose with a needle-nosed pliers-- and the spring shot free, unseen! I just dimly remembered there was a spring under that spindle that made me persist in looking for it-- and found the sucker under the sofa.
Thanks much!!! Will post some pix later with the scope attached.
And (as usual), you are correct: that windage locking screw had worked itself loose from the locking bar or spindle and remained inside.
I was able to (carefully) work it loose with a needle-nosed pliers-- and the spring shot free, unseen! I just dimly remembered there was a spring under that spindle that made me persist in looking for it-- and found the sucker under the sofa.
Thanks much!!! Will post some pix later with the scope attached.
A bad shot is often caused by a loose nut behind the buttplate
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- Regular contributor
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 11:02 pm
- Location: South California
Bullseye-
I tried out my M1 with its B-Square-mounted offset scope- initially, it won't even print at 25 yds. Finally, when I got the bullets printing, having reached the limit of the scope adjustments, I found I needed to use the mount elevation srews. I brought only 5 clips of milsurp as I didn't anticipate much trouble in zeroing.
I had to use 10 rds of commercial PMC 150gr BT SP to get to the black. I guess that group would give me a 2 MOA at 100 yds? I'll fine tune it next week and zero it at 75 yds only. What do you think?
And I'll definitely need a cheek rest.
I tried out my M1 with its B-Square-mounted offset scope- initially, it won't even print at 25 yds. Finally, when I got the bullets printing, having reached the limit of the scope adjustments, I found I needed to use the mount elevation srews. I brought only 5 clips of milsurp as I didn't anticipate much trouble in zeroing.
I had to use 10 rds of commercial PMC 150gr BT SP to get to the black. I guess that group would give me a 2 MOA at 100 yds? I'll fine tune it next week and zero it at 75 yds only. What do you think?
And I'll definitely need a cheek rest.
A bad shot is often caused by a loose nut behind the buttplate
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
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