Customizing a Ruger NM Blackhawk?

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Waffen
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Customizing a Ruger NM Blackhawk?

Post by Waffen » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:10 am

Gentlemen,

I purchased a New Model Ruger Blackhawk in .357 about a year ago for my first pistol. I have been quite happy with it during the short time I have owned it. I have however wondered what could be done to it to make it a more solid feeling pistol. I come from a background of shooting "precision" bolt action rifles so I'm no beginner shooter, and consider myself to be a half decent gun smith. Usually with any gun I choose it's pretty easy to find out what needs to be done to the gun to make it shoot better or tune it up, however with the Blackhawk that information seems to be tougher to find and I've done my best to research the issue.

Anyway I wanted to post my plans for the pistol and see if ya'll had any feedback or any other ideas on what I would need to do.

1.) Power Custom half-cock hammer
2.) Power Custom Trigger
3.) Wolf Spring kit (30oz trigger spring, 19lb hammer spring)
4.) Power Custom oversized cylinder latch (fit to frame/cylinder)
5.) Belt Mountain locking base pin
6.) Power Custom modified transfer bar (or mod my own if I ever figure out what needs to be done)
7.) Woodgrips.com cocobolo grips.

I am under the impression with this setup the trigger would be substantially lighter, while keeping lock-time at or faster than the factory level. It would also make the gun's lockup much tighter, and perhaps make the gun substantially more accurate, or not any difference at all depending on how the gun actually specs from the factory.

This pistol is going to pretty much be a range queen. I don't shoot CAS, and it does have a slight chance of being taken on a deer hunt but that would really only be after I find the right load for it, and feel comfortable in making the shot.

Do I have this right or do I need to re-think the whole thing?

J Miller
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Post by J Miller » Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:41 pm

Waffen,

I agree with the Power Custom Hammer and trigger set. However I'd leave the factory main spring. I don't like light hammer strikes and with the factory spring you won't have any.

The Belt Mountain base pin and the oversized bolt could possibly cause you some trouble. You can tighten these guns up to the point it changes the chamber to bore alinement.

I'd suggest contacting Iowegan over at The Ruger Forum and purchasing one of his most excellent range rod kits.
That way you can test the chamber to bore alinement before you change anything and spend money you don't need to spend.

Two more things:

How does it shoot now? If it's accurate and reliable, why fix it, it's not broke?

You mentioned coming from a precision rifle background. Well, Rugers are not in that class. They are made to function reliably with good accuracy. They are not a precision firearm as you are use to.

Joe

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Post by Clem » Wed Jan 24, 2007 7:37 am

When I get a new Blackhawk, I have some things I do to it.

I break out the pin gages and measure the cylinder throats. In .357, they pretty well measure .358” which is fine. In .45, they can be tight at .450” or so. Tight gets reamed out. Probably won’t be necessary with the .357.

I then look at the barrel forcing cone. I like to recut the forcing cone with a 5 degree cutter in .357 and an 11 degree cutter in .45. The forcing cones are often rough and not concentric.

Check for timing. The carry-up should be on time and lock-up should be fairly tight.

I then take things apart. I put a Belt Mountain cylinder base pin in to tighten things up. Wolff spring kit. It includes a heavier spring for the cylinder base pin latch, and lighter springs for the hammer and trigger. I then smooth up the hammer/trigger engagement surfaces. I also like to lightly hit the engagement surfaces and edges of things like the pawl.

I then install the grips of my choice. I prefer Eagle Gunfighter grips. I use checkered grips where recoil is fairly mild, and smooth grips for heavily recoiling guns. .357 is in the mild recoil category.

I don’t install the Power parts. I tried them once and didn’t care for them. I stick with the original parts.

Everything here is really a matter of personal preference. Your mileage will vary.

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