Colt 1911, Maybe

KAZ · Post by **KAZ** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:29 pm

Nice project! When you get through it will be a fun blaster. Regards

bgreenea3 · Post by **bgreenea3** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:52 pm

greener wrote:Kaboom was your reload, I think.

I still blame a dirty chamber...... 230 lrn over 5.0 of UC is not even close to too hot..... its about as midrange as you can get. I'll post pics later of the kaboom

bgreenea3 · Post by **bgreenea3** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:55 pm

once you get that dialed in it should give your pt1911 a run for its money in the accuracy dept.... looks/sounds like it has a tight fit.

greener · Post by **greener** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:03 pm

Whee doggies, I'm never going to use this one in the under 30 seconds with a blind-fold 1911 assembly challenge. Certainly a better man than I put the thing together the last time. The guide rod appeared to be about 1/64-1/32 to long. First mod was to file the guide rod a smidge shorter.

I had been thinking about getting one of the Philippine 1911's to tinker with. This one looks like a better idea. Lots of tinkering just to get it apart and back together.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:14 pm

Better yet, just get a GI guide rod and recoil spring cap and ditch that full length guide rod.

R,
Bullseye

greener · Post by **greener** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:31 am

Bullseye wrote:Better yet, just get a GI guide rod and recoil spring cap and ditch that full length guide rod.

R,
Bullseye

Ayep. Sounds like a better idea

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:46 am

My SA 1911A1 loaded has a 2 piece full length guide rod but the end has a screw slot in it to take it apart do you cab remove the bushing My SA Micro and V10 do not have bushings, the Micro has a captive double spring and you have to partially compress the spring and than snap a sllev over to hold it to remove the slide. The V10 as I remember has nothing and you just have to compress it far enough to remove the slide stop lever to get it apart.

stork · Post by **stork** » Mon Aug 02, 2010 1:29 pm

Bullseye wrote:Better yet, just get a GI guide rod and recoil spring cap and ditch that full length guide rod.

R,
Bullseye

+1 on that. If JMB wanted his creation to have a full length guide rod in, he would have designed it that way.

FWIW

greener · Post by **greener** » Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:31 pm

I fired it this weekend with the 14# spring and the shorter guide rod. Fired accurately but the trigger was heavier than I want and it seemed to be a problem with reset. At least it was sloppy.

I did a detail strip.

4 finger spring, the hammer has been polished some and the sear looks new.

I'm trying to decide whether to order a new trigger, hammer and sear before I try to polishing what I have.

greener · Post by **greener** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:20 am

I had a fun evening reassembling the pistol from the detail strip. Either I can't properly reassemble one with two sets of instructions or I need to replace some parts. On reassembly the grip safety didn't work, the thumb safety worked only with some hammer wiggling and the sear didn't engage the hammer every time. The latter makes the pistol unshootable, I'm not very interested in the hammer following the slide home on a live round.

Can you miss reassembly so that this happens?

Any favorite replacement parts that have worked well (hammer, sear, leaf spring) that have worked well?

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:47 am

Check your Clark 4 legged leaf spring, it may be out of place. Did you bend any of the legs on that spring?

Your four legged Clark spring works like this: (From left to right) The first spring rides on the sear. Bending it inward pushes on the sear more forcefully and increases trigger break weight. The second leg rides on the disconnector and forces it upward. The third leg pushes on the trigger bow. It controls the trigger take-up (slack) weight. The fourth leg (the rightmost leg) controls the grip safety return pressure.

R,
Bullseye

greener · Post by **greener** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:37 pm

This is what the leaf spring looks like. I'm looking at the sear/disconnector installation and I'm pulling the Taurus apart to try some parts swapping.

I haven't bent the leaf-spring

greener · Post by **greener** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:26 pm

Bullseye wrote:Check your Clark 4 legged leaf spring, it may be out of place. Did you bend any of the legs on that spring?

R,
Bullseye

The left leg of the leaf spring was sliding off sear, I think. Also, spring seems to be shorter than the 3-leg spring on my Taurus.

I did a detail strip on the Taurus and this one for comparison. I got lots of quality time fiddling with the pieces and it went back together and works properly. Loads of fun fiddling with it.

Still plan to replace internals and do some polishing.

Post by **Bullseye** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:12 am

I kind of figured it was something like that. If the left (sear) leg slips off the back of the sear lots of strange things can happen. And they do tend to slip off as your inserting the mainspring housing.

R,
Bullseye

greener · Post by **greener** » Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:37 am

I put the @&&%# together three times. The second two times, I paid, I thought, particular attention to the spring finger positions. Last night, I did a bunch of repetitions on each step. The 4-fingered leaf wants to slip left in that pistol as you slide the mainspring housing up. The grip safety covers this so you can't see it happening. I was being consistent in the assembly, just consistently wrong.

3-fingered springs are a touch easier.