Ruger Blackhawk: Ejector Rod Housing?

[Waffen]

I have had this Ruger Blackhawk for about a year and have had zero problems until now. I was at the range the other day shooting when all of a sudden the ejector rod housing, ejector rod, spring, and screw came flying off. I didn't really inspect it until I got home and it appears that it seems the screw AND the hole dirlled have stripped. I don't see how this is possible but it is the situation.

I was wondering if there was an actual way to fix this with a locktite application or if I would HAVE to send it back to Ruger? I would really hate to do that because they would probably replace the barrel and this thing is a real shooter. I would have to have to chance getting a not so accurate barrel and possibly having to start load development over again.

Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.

[Bullseye]

This is an unusual situation. Locktite alone is not going to solve this problem. This gun is likely either going to your gunsmith or back to Ruger. Is the Ejector Housing Screw stripped or is the screw hole in the barrel stripped? If it is just the barrel, then a Heli-coil insert can be applied to the screw hole. I'd go with a Screw-lock model insert that would basically be self locking and not allow the ejector housing screw to vibrate loose again under recoil.

Tough decision but since your Blackhawk is fairly new, I'd probably send it back to Ruger and have them make it right. Before making a choice, you should call their customer service line and talk with one of their technical staff about the problem.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

[J Miller]

For damaged barrels like yours may be there's several cures.

>The heli coil like Bullseye said is one.

>Haveing a gunsmith put a stud in the barrel and modify the ejector rod to fit that is another.

>Welding up, redrilling and tapping the hole is another, but that would require reblueing the barrel.

>And of course returing it to Ruger is one. If the gun is farily new, I'd call Ruger and arrange for them to fix it. They might even cover the shipping if they determine it's a warrenty problem.


Now, comments from experiance and use.
Once your gun is fixed - do two things:
>First, degrease the screw hole and the screw and coat them with BLUE LocTite.
>Second, using a proper fitting gunsmith type screw driver tighten that screw as tight as you can - without - going to excessive measures. You don't want to strip it, but at the same time you do want it tight.

Let it sit for 24 hours and then that ejector rod should be good forever. Or at least until you take it off again.

My OM BH .45 has an aftermarket steel ejector rod housing on it. The barrel is studded and the EJH fits snugly up against the stud. It's been on their now for almost 9 years and hasn't budged once on it's own.
This is why I recomend the addition of the stud.

Joe

[allendavis]

I have had this Ruger Blackhawk for about a year and have had zero problems until now. I was at the range the other day shooting when all of a sudden the ejector rod housing, ejector rod, spring, and screw came flying off. I didn't really inspect it until I got home and it appears that it seems the screw AND the hole dirlled have stripped. I don't see how this is possible but it is the situation.

I had a similar problem with my Rugers as well as my EMF Colt SAA clone. The repeated recoil probably jarred the screw loose that's up there under the muzzle, or close to it. You should check the screw's tension with every cleaning. And speaking of which, I usually remove that entire housing just to wipe things down and clean everything up.

I was wondering if there was an actual way to fix this with a locktite application or if I would HAVE to send it back to Ruger?

I wouldn't do either. Just keep your eyes open.

My biggest problems are keeping the counter-screws tight with the Rugers and my Colt clone -- the jobbies that secure the cylinder rod. I find that I'm constantly having to tighten these things while at the range. I wish someone could come up with something -- short of Lock-Tite -- that would keep those screws tight.

I would really hate to do that because they would probably replace the barrel and this thing is a real shooter. I would have to have to chance getting a not so accurate barrel and possibly having to start load development over again.

Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.

I seriously doubt Ruger would replace your barrel. I've sent guns back to them, and they've always been good about repair work without doing anything that drastic.

There's a local guy to me (in Indiana) who offers an optiion, but his waiting list is getting long now, thanks to you guys here on this list who are filling up his schedule!!! He replaces the standard counter screws with a split-screw like you find on the Ruger, but the things tighten up much tighter.

For your ejector housing, I advise that you buy a good-fitting screwdriver and check the tension.

If the the threads are stripped, then they can be redone with a good tap in the hands of a decent gunsmith -- or you can send it back to Ruger.

[gunsmither]

I realize this is an old thread, but it's an interesting one IMHO.

It may well be possible to re- thread the barrel hole to say 6/48, and make a new screw. I think the original is 6/40 if I recall. I haven't had a Blackhawk apart in a long while, so I could be all wet. (That has happened a time or two!)

www.brownells.com has an oversize 6/48 tap and die I believe, and this could be handy for making a new screw, and re- tapping perhaps. They also have oversize 6/48 screws.

It may also be possible to swage the hole slightly with a punch, then re- tap for the original screw size.

Whatever method is used, the Blue Locktite is definitely in order; RED may even be better if your not into dis- assembling it very often, but RED takes heat to undue.

Safe and Happy Shooting to all! Joe

[allendavis]

I realize this is an old thread, but it's an interesting one IMHO.

It may well be possible to re- thread the barrel hole to say 6/48, and make a new screw. I think the original is 6/40 if I recall. I haven't had a Blackhawk apart in a long while, so I could be all wet. (That has happened a time or two!)

www.brownells.com has an oversize 6/48 tap and die I believe, and this could be handy for making a new screw, and re- tapping perhaps. They also have oversize 6/48 screws.

It may also be possible to swage the hole slightly with a punch, then re- tap for the original screw size.

Whatever method is used, the Blue Locktite is definitely in order; RED may even be better if your not into dis- assembling it very often, but RED takes heat to undue.

Safe and Happy Shooting to all! Joe

I had to re-read your post three times to make sure I understood you, but what you say makes some sense.

I'm still having problems with my cylinder pin retainer thing-a-ma-bob working loose, no matter how tightly I try to torque the damn thing. Every 3rd or 4th cylinder-full of ammo, the duck-plucker gets loose enough to allow my cylinder pin to jump forward.

Very disturbing.

Allen

[gunsmither]

Sorry if I confused you Allen. I sometimes get carried away with my thinking when converted to typing!

You can get new cylinder latch parts from Brownells if your parts are battered from the pin jumping out. Also, I have on several occasions replaced the spring with a slightly heavier one made from a coil spring pak from Wolfe Gun Springs that Brownells sells also. This should keep the pin from jumping out.

You might also consider replacing the pin with one of the aftermarket ones that has a retaining set screw in the forward part of the pin; Belt Mountain is the brand I believe.

You might try asking about your problems over at www.rugerforum.com also. There are a lot of good single action buffs over there.

I hope you solve your problems. Joe