GP100 Cylinder binding

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greener

GP100 Cylinder binding

Post by greener » Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:15 pm

Can you think of anything else to look at?

I shoot mostly .38 special lead reloads in my GP100. The cylinders get cleaned regularly to remove lead deposit build up, which can cause the base of the casing to protrude slightly and bind the cylinder. Yesterday the cylinder started moving slightly front and back when it was closed and would bind without rounds, then not bind when opened and closed. Last night I disassembled the revolver for a thorough cleaning and look-see. Except for the 15 minutes cussing the trigger guard lock, which was very reluctant to move. No way would the hammer spring strut move it as the manual said.

The innards looked reasonably clean and didn't take much time to clean. I did a thorough job of cleaning the cylinders. The problems seem to have gone away, but I haven't fired it.

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bearandoldman
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Re: GP100 Cylinder binding

Post by bearandoldman » Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:42 pm

greener wrote:Can you think of anything else to look at?

I shoot mostly .38 special lead reloads in my GP100. The cylinders get cleaned regularly to remove lead deposit build up, which can cause the base of the casing to protrude slightly and bind the cylinder. Yesterday the cylinder started moving slightly front and back when it was closed and would bind without rounds, then not bind when opened and closed. Last night I disassembled the revolver for a thorough cleaning and look-see. Except for the 15 minutes cussing the trigger guard lock, which was very reluctant to move. No way would the hammer spring strut move it as the manual said.

The innards looked reasonably clean and didn't take much time to clean. I did a thorough job of cleaning the cylinders. The problems seem to have gone away, but I haven't fired it.
How should I know, just an oldman and a dog that play with guns, but you are approaching the 600 mark
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
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greener

Re: GP100 Cylinder binding

Post by greener » Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:33 pm

bearandoldman wrote: How should I know, just an oldman and a dog that play with guns, but you are approaching the 600 mark
I'd think someone with over 700 postings would find the answer so trivial that he'd let the dog that plays with guns send the answer to us lowly sub-600 posters. :lol:

I learned two things. If you follow the manual, everything works as described except for the #%^^& trigger guard lock. And you can extend "Talk Like a Pirate Day" from Friday to Sunday with lots of aaarrgh's and other sailor language while trying to get the lock to move.

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Post by Python » Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:17 am

Greener;

Keeping the cylinder clean has nothing to do with the rotation or lock work in a revolver.

The internal lock work has to be cleaned and lubricated very often or you get binding.

When you get inside of your pistol, what is clean to you is dirty to me.

I have an advantage.
I do all of my own pistol smithing and cleaning and the greatest advantage is 180 psi shop air to blow all of the crud out that you can not see(but it is there).

Get into the internals of the pistol, clean and blow it out, lubricate it and blow it out.(if you do not have shop air, then an air can can get you by)
[spraying lubricant into the lock work and blowing it out actually hydraulics crap out in itself](trust me it works)

Take the cylinder off of the crane and clean it also, this can bind the movement.

You will be surprised of all the crud that can get into the nitty gritty parts of any firearm : )(a revolver must be kept clean to function properly).

Just my .02 cents worth.

greener

Post by greener » Wed Sep 24, 2008 6:17 am

Thanks, I'll give that a look.

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