ar 15 build
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ar 15 build
Back in December I decided to build my own AR rifle.....then the sandy hook shooting and Gunpocolypse happened... I bought a stripped DPMS lower and it sat until I found a lower parts kit for what I knew was a reasonable price. About two weeks ago my LGS got in a bunch of LPKs for $73. And I just picked up a buffer tube and 6 position buttstock. So my lower is now complete.
Next challenge is to decide what to do with the upper. I've decided on a flat top upper with a 16" bbl ...... Not sure on caliber between 5.56 and 300blk, or on twist rate. I think I want to assemble the whole gun myself just because.
Looking for any suggestions or input from the peanut gallery.....
Next challenge is to decide what to do with the upper. I've decided on a flat top upper with a 16" bbl ...... Not sure on caliber between 5.56 and 300blk, or on twist rate. I think I want to assemble the whole gun myself just because.
Looking for any suggestions or input from the peanut gallery.....
"Courage is being scared to death... and saddling up anyway."
-John Wayne
-John Wayne
- blue68f100
- Master contributor
- Posts: 1997
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
- Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
The AR builds are more assembly of collected parts. Not a lot of specialty tools required. There is tuning you can do with the gas system to make them cycle right. But you have a lot of options for accessories
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
Progress so far.... the trigger from the RGuns LPK is going to need a little work, its not too bad but a bit gritty... I see some stoning or a replacement in its future
and this is my patrol rifle this is what I'm used to shooting when it comes to the AR platform, this and surplus m16A1 I was issued before i traded for the lighter carbine.
I don't really like the A2 upper because to mount a red dot like this Aimpoint comp ML2 you either have to mount it really high on the carry handle or Scout scope style like this..... This actually works pretty well.
and this is my patrol rifle this is what I'm used to shooting when it comes to the AR platform, this and surplus m16A1 I was issued before i traded for the lighter carbine.
I don't really like the A2 upper because to mount a red dot like this Aimpoint comp ML2 you either have to mount it really high on the carry handle or Scout scope style like this..... This actually works pretty well.
"Courage is being scared to death... and saddling up anyway."
-John Wayne
-John Wayne
- Georgezilla
- Master contributor
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:35 pm
Looks nice. You don't plan on ever running a single point sling? I notice you are not using an end plate that can accept one.
As far as caliber, I'm pretty ignorant about the 300 AAC Blackout. It seems really similar to the 7.62x39mm AK round. Hard hitting round, good barrier penetration with a big bullet. I think most of the pros and cons of 300 AAC vs 5.56mm are basically the same as that of the AK round. The 300 AAC hits significantly harder at short to medium ranges, but cant really reach out to the same long distances that the 5.56mm can. Also there is the weight consideration of the rounds themselves, one could carry more 5.56mm. Additionally, 300 AAC is about twice the cost of .223rem ammo, making training a lot cheaper with a 5.56 AR.
Since you are in law enforcement and are much more likely than I to have to use the firearm to defend your life or that of others, the fact that 300 AAC hits significantly harder at closer ranges is probably a big consideration. Although, from what I understand you would be contending with a bit more muzzle rise with the 300 (I have not actually shot a 300 AR, but this seems to be the consensus).
I just finished my first AR build yesterday. Started from totally stripped upper and lower. Really fun project. Sure learned a lot about how the rifle works. Unfortunately, when I was finishing the upper I noticed my barrel had a nick on the crown. Luckily it seems that the company I ordered my barrel from (Rainier Arms) is standing by their product 100%, so I will send it off on Monday.
As far as caliber, I'm pretty ignorant about the 300 AAC Blackout. It seems really similar to the 7.62x39mm AK round. Hard hitting round, good barrier penetration with a big bullet. I think most of the pros and cons of 300 AAC vs 5.56mm are basically the same as that of the AK round. The 300 AAC hits significantly harder at short to medium ranges, but cant really reach out to the same long distances that the 5.56mm can. Also there is the weight consideration of the rounds themselves, one could carry more 5.56mm. Additionally, 300 AAC is about twice the cost of .223rem ammo, making training a lot cheaper with a 5.56 AR.
Since you are in law enforcement and are much more likely than I to have to use the firearm to defend your life or that of others, the fact that 300 AAC hits significantly harder at closer ranges is probably a big consideration. Although, from what I understand you would be contending with a bit more muzzle rise with the 300 (I have not actually shot a 300 AR, but this seems to be the consensus).
I just finished my first AR build yesterday. Started from totally stripped upper and lower. Really fun project. Sure learned a lot about how the rifle works. Unfortunately, when I was finishing the upper I noticed my barrel had a nick on the crown. Luckily it seems that the company I ordered my barrel from (Rainier Arms) is standing by their product 100%, so I will send it off on Monday.
That's what I've done so far, gone from a stripped lower to what I got now. you really learn a lot about the system by putting one together. I spent a little time smoothing out the trigger pull with a wet stone and now all the grit is out of it and ts nice and crisp.
as for the 300blk, from what I know its a lot like the 7.62x39 ballistically, and you can run bigger boolits in it up to 220 gr loaded to subsonic velocities, which is intriguing to me. I'm not sure what direction I'm going to go yet 223 or 300blk, I got time. I'm not going to pay panic prices for my parts so when I find what I want at what I'll pay I'll decide then.
What flavor of AR did you put together? Would love to see some photos.
as for the 300blk, from what I know its a lot like the 7.62x39 ballistically, and you can run bigger boolits in it up to 220 gr loaded to subsonic velocities, which is intriguing to me. I'm not sure what direction I'm going to go yet 223 or 300blk, I got time. I'm not going to pay panic prices for my parts so when I find what I want at what I'll pay I'll decide then.
What flavor of AR did you put together? Would love to see some photos.
"Courage is being scared to death... and saddling up anyway."
-John Wayne
-John Wayne
- Georgezilla
- Master contributor
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:35 pm
As I understand it, one of the main design parameters for the 300blk was to be fired sound suppressed from an AR platform. Makes a lot of sense to have a big bullet if your working velocity out of a rifle is only 1100ft/s.
The overall picture for my build is the same as yours, 16" tactical rifle. (Long post to come...).
Here is my lower:
-Battle Born billet lower (Not actually class-3/full auto, they just put the extra auto mark on the frame.). I only got this billet receiver because the price was right, I have no problem with forged parts (like the upper I used). This lower does have a really nice magwell.
-Geissele SA trigger. Kind of just wanted to see if it was worth the money. Really nice trigger, but not enough better than an RRA for me to justify the price.
-Magpul enhanced trigger guard.
-IKH SLAP end plate (just in case I ever want to run a single point).
-Magpul MOE stock and grip.
-Other internals are DPMS.
Already pulled apart the upper to send the defective barrel back, but here is what I have for the upper:
-Aero Precision forged flat top upper, DPMS FA and dust cover (I did decide to put the FA on it in the end).
-Bravo Company Gunfighter charging handle, large latch. I wanted a latch large enough to easily be manipulated with gloves, but this large one is a bit too big and will likely cause problems when a sling is used, I will be replacing it with a medium latch. The large latch would be excellent for a scope though.
-Palmetto State Armory BCG.
-Bravo Company low profile gas block.
-Battle comp 1.0.
-Troy Industries Alpha Rail - 13". Awesome rail, if you haven't gotten one already, check these out. Free floated, super easy to install (uses standard barrel nut), really light weight. It has modular rail sections that I did not include in the picture, so you can attach small rail sections anywhere you want while still saving A LOT of weight over a quad rail (I'm not a fan of the quad rails, glad to see they are going out of style). My decision to go with a 13" rail was inspired by 3-gun ARs even though that is not my intended use for the rifle. The long rail allows the user a lot of options as far as grip stretch. The long rail also allows the user to take advantage of the free float in more situations (firing from rested positions). Also, the long rail gives a longer sight radius with irons. Weight is an issue with this build, but my thinking now is that the long handguard offers me a lot for the added weight.
As of now, I am forgoing a vertical grip. I don't like how they feel on non-SBRs.
-Barrel, the barrel was and will be a a 16" midlength gas, medium contour, 5.56mm caliber. The defective one I just pulled off was 416 SS, but I don't have a problem with chrome lined.
-Sights/Optics, haven't got any yet. Big expense (even irons) and wanted to build the rifle first. My plan is a Troy fixed front sight mounted at the end of the rail, Troy flip up for the rear, and a regular Aimpoint red-dot, not sure about the mount. The irons will be either absolute co-witnessed or lower 1/3 co-witnessed with the Aimpoint. Is your patrol rifle's irons lower 1/3 or absolute co-witnessed with your optic? What is your opinion on the setup your rifle is running?
BTW, if you plan on building the upper yourself and you don't already have one, I highly recommend one of these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021 ... cm_vc=U112
I like the Wheeler one a lot better than the ProMag one. The BCG insert on the wheeler one also has rod that slides back and forth to aid in gas tube-barrel nut alignment, very nice feature.
The overall picture for my build is the same as yours, 16" tactical rifle. (Long post to come...).
Here is my lower:
-Battle Born billet lower (Not actually class-3/full auto, they just put the extra auto mark on the frame.). I only got this billet receiver because the price was right, I have no problem with forged parts (like the upper I used). This lower does have a really nice magwell.
-Geissele SA trigger. Kind of just wanted to see if it was worth the money. Really nice trigger, but not enough better than an RRA for me to justify the price.
-Magpul enhanced trigger guard.
-IKH SLAP end plate (just in case I ever want to run a single point).
-Magpul MOE stock and grip.
-Other internals are DPMS.
Already pulled apart the upper to send the defective barrel back, but here is what I have for the upper:
-Aero Precision forged flat top upper, DPMS FA and dust cover (I did decide to put the FA on it in the end).
-Bravo Company Gunfighter charging handle, large latch. I wanted a latch large enough to easily be manipulated with gloves, but this large one is a bit too big and will likely cause problems when a sling is used, I will be replacing it with a medium latch. The large latch would be excellent for a scope though.
-Palmetto State Armory BCG.
-Bravo Company low profile gas block.
-Battle comp 1.0.
-Troy Industries Alpha Rail - 13". Awesome rail, if you haven't gotten one already, check these out. Free floated, super easy to install (uses standard barrel nut), really light weight. It has modular rail sections that I did not include in the picture, so you can attach small rail sections anywhere you want while still saving A LOT of weight over a quad rail (I'm not a fan of the quad rails, glad to see they are going out of style). My decision to go with a 13" rail was inspired by 3-gun ARs even though that is not my intended use for the rifle. The long rail allows the user a lot of options as far as grip stretch. The long rail also allows the user to take advantage of the free float in more situations (firing from rested positions). Also, the long rail gives a longer sight radius with irons. Weight is an issue with this build, but my thinking now is that the long handguard offers me a lot for the added weight.
As of now, I am forgoing a vertical grip. I don't like how they feel on non-SBRs.
-Barrel, the barrel was and will be a a 16" midlength gas, medium contour, 5.56mm caliber. The defective one I just pulled off was 416 SS, but I don't have a problem with chrome lined.
-Sights/Optics, haven't got any yet. Big expense (even irons) and wanted to build the rifle first. My plan is a Troy fixed front sight mounted at the end of the rail, Troy flip up for the rear, and a regular Aimpoint red-dot, not sure about the mount. The irons will be either absolute co-witnessed or lower 1/3 co-witnessed with the Aimpoint. Is your patrol rifle's irons lower 1/3 or absolute co-witnessed with your optic? What is your opinion on the setup your rifle is running?
BTW, if you plan on building the upper yourself and you don't already have one, I highly recommend one of these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021 ... cm_vc=U112
I like the Wheeler one a lot better than the ProMag one. The BCG insert on the wheeler one also has rod that slides back and forth to aid in gas tube-barrel nut alignment, very nice feature.
It's for sure rewarding to put together a reliable AR, good job Georgezilla and bgreen!
Here's the Palmetto I recently put together, and after shooting a few hundred rounds through it, it's proving a reliable, accurate shooter. I can't say enough about the PSA products, indeed a great company to deal with.
Here's the Palmetto I recently put together, and after shooting a few hundred rounds through it, it's proving a reliable, accurate shooter. I can't say enough about the PSA products, indeed a great company to deal with.
Last edited by gcp on Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
gcp
Courageous we stand!
Courageous we stand!
bgreen, you may want to take a look at this link. I executed the 15 min trigger job and am very happy with the results. Mine is now a crisp, reliable 3lbs 13oz. But be very careful as the manufacturers only surface harden the trigger group parts....ask me how I really feel about this cost saving measure
http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm
Last week I ordered the Hyperfire Hypertouch 24 trigger group because I was intrigued by its engineering, I like the idea of being able to change trigger pulls on the fly http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxnjjaEjIro
http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm
Last week I ordered the Hyperfire Hypertouch 24 trigger group because I was intrigued by its engineering, I like the idea of being able to change trigger pulls on the fly http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxnjjaEjIro
Last edited by gcp on Mon Jul 29, 2013 5:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
gcp
Courageous we stand!
Courageous we stand!
Interesting product. I'm not sure how well this trigger set-up would work in CMP/DCM rifles as the minimum trigger weight for competition is 4.5 pounds. The adjustable weight chart with this trigger system only shows 3.8 pounds as the maximum setting. The mechanics do look interesting and some further investigation is warranted for this product.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
Bullseye, it comes with 3 sets of springs for 2.5, 3.5, & 4.5lb pull so max setting should be 4.5lbs. Yes, I liked the idea so much I bought the product and it's supposed to be here tomorrow, or the next day, so as soon as I install it I'll let you all know what I think of it.Bullseye wrote:Interesting product. I'm not sure how well this trigger set-up would work in CMP/DCM rifles as the minimum trigger weight for competition is 4.5 pounds. The adjustable weight chart with this trigger system only shows 3.8 pounds as the maximum setting. The mechanics do look interesting and some further investigation is warranted for this product.
R,
Bullseye
gcp
Courageous we stand!
Courageous we stand!
When I viewed the installation video the pull weights for the three spring groups are different than what you've indicated. Here's the chart in question-
The black spring are listed as 2.7, yellow at 3.5, and blue at 3.8 so I'm curious as to what the overall pull weight will be when tested. The audio keeps saying from 2.5-4.5 but the application chart says different with 2-4 lbs of adjustment. When yours come in I look forward to hearing what the actual measurement is on the weight since the minimum service rifle trigger weight is set at 4.5 lbs by rule.
R,
Bullseye
The black spring are listed as 2.7, yellow at 3.5, and blue at 3.8 so I'm curious as to what the overall pull weight will be when tested. The audio keeps saying from 2.5-4.5 but the application chart says different with 2-4 lbs of adjustment. When yours come in I look forward to hearing what the actual measurement is on the weight since the minimum service rifle trigger weight is set at 4.5 lbs by rule.
R,
Bullseye
I suspect the 3.8lbs should be 4.8lbs? I went by what "a youtube" video said but obviously the chart speaks a different story....and I hope that's not an indication of added negative things to come. When it arrives I'll install and report back with precise trigger pulls for each spring set, assuming my gauge is still calibrated, and if indeed the highest setting proves to be under 4.5lbs that's an additional spring set recommendation we may want to pass on to the manufacturer for competition shooters. For my style of shooting the lighter the better.
gcp
Courageous we stand!
Courageous we stand!