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polish brand and tips

Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:15 am
by radio
I asked on another forum board, but didn't get good feedback that is the norm on here. I am looking to hand polish a few surfaces in the action of an older Glenfield 60, the guide rods and hammer on a Rem. 597, the bolt on another rimfire or 2, etc. Some areas will be purely cosmetic while others are, of course, function based.

What brand of polish is recommended for these projects? I also own a Dremel, but wouldn't use that on sensitive areas. Any other polishing tips (parts, techniques, etc.) would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, I will probably replace the stock 597 hammer with a VQ in the future, but would like to see what a little surface work may do. Also, the budget is shot to pieces this time of year.

Thanks, in advance

Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 10:21 am
by blue68f100
I'm a little old school when it comes to polishing things. In your case you need to maintain as much material as possiable. The proper way would be to start off course and work down if not a finished part. If your working on a flat surface use a hard surface that will not flex, like a metal block. The reason behind if it flexes the part will not stay flat. I use a ground granite block for my backing when ever possiable. If you can find some 2400 and 4000 grit sandpaper this works nice on flat parts. The hardest part is keeping even pressure so it stays flat. Light pressure applied in 1 direction is best to prevent gutting on one edge more. (Note some parts you work on will not be perfectly flat). But you may not have this option since your working with a finished product. I also have diamond paste down to 1/4 micron which is not readily available.

Make sure you have a clean counter to start/work on. If you lay a buffer down it will pickup what ever it hits contaminating the medium. I have seen many times when a person was down to the final touches and puts a big scratch through a part due to contamination.

One of the easiest way is using Fritz Metal Polish on a buffing wheel or by elbow grease. Use light pressure and just take your time, let the polish do the work. When you start apply heavy forces you will end up with a washed out look. Be careful around holes and edges, as a buffing wheel will cut/round them. For hand polish I use a piece of soft leather (1/16" 4-5oz) for the polish carrier. The leather keeps the polish from penetrating down to your hands/fingers and gives you a good finish.

Just take your time. The harder parts will polish the easiest. Soft parts have a tendency to washout easily.

Posted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 12:03 pm
by Bullseye
I second Flitz as a good general purpose polish. I frequently use Jewler's rouge and Silver polish to add a high sheen to some projects.

R,
Bullseye