I have read the description of the install.
What is the function of 'pushing the pin' out 1/3-1/2 way??
How do you get the sharp instrument in so as to push the plunger down? What makes the best 'sharp instrument' in this case?
Edge extractor install
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
- Georgezilla
- Master contributor
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:35 pm
The extractor spring plunger holds the extractor in the bolt via a sorta half tongue-groove; if you didn't pull the plunger back, you wouldn't be able to rotate the extractor out of the bolt.
To get the tool between the plunger and extractor, I pull the extractor to the right hand side of the bolt so that the plunger/extractor move back into the circular cut out, then I shim the tool in there and pull the plunger back.
I've used a number of things that all did the job fine, but my favorite is dental scaler. Use anything that is small enough to get in there and not mar the parts
To get the tool between the plunger and extractor, I pull the extractor to the right hand side of the bolt so that the plunger/extractor move back into the circular cut out, then I shim the tool in there and pull the plunger back.
I've used a number of things that all did the job fine, but my favorite is dental scaler. Use anything that is small enough to get in there and not mar the parts
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
Re: Edge extractor install
If you are referring to changing the extractor on a Ruger pistol: you need to push the pin over so ther is enough space to collapse the spring behind the extractor, it also holds in the firing pin and associated small parts.langenc wrote:I have read the description of the install.
What is the function of 'pushing the pin' out 1/3-1/2 way??
How do you get the sharp instrument in so as to push the plunger down? What makes the best 'sharp instrument' in this case?
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
You can actually push out the firing pin stop pin all the way out of the bolt but then you have to deal with the firing pin and the FP return spring and guide. You have to move the FP stop pin at least 1/3 to the left to allow the extractor spring plunger enough room to retract. It has an extended end on it that actually will travel into the FP stop hole when retracted far enough to release the end of the extractor hook. This method holds the extractor captive and the forces of recoil cannot cause it to fly out of the gun.
There are two tools that seem to work best, either a pointed metal scribe or a fine tipped Jeweler's screwdriver. Either way, you have to work the hook back and forth a few times to get the tool in between the back of the extractor and the plunger deep enough to push the plunger rearward.
R,
Bullseye
There are two tools that seem to work best, either a pointed metal scribe or a fine tipped Jeweler's screwdriver. Either way, you have to work the hook back and forth a few times to get the tool in between the back of the extractor and the plunger deep enough to push the plunger rearward.
R,
Bullseye
- Georgezilla
- Master contributor
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:35 pm