Need 10/22 help

Discuss .22 Rifles.

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bearandoldman
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Post by bearandoldman » Sun Feb 21, 2010 4:04 pm

HAWK, how did the gun operate before the changes. Did you ever shoot it with the mods and with the stock barrel? What model is it?
I have 4 10/22's and they all shoot fairly well once you find the right ammo; All have stock barrels and a trigger done by my local smith, what he does exactly, I have no idea, but he gets me a nice 2-1/2 pound trigger.
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Post by purchawk » Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:58 pm

OMAB: Yes, I had the stock carbine for about 8 months and did plenty of shooting. It was decent, but it was no tack driver and the trigger drove me nuts. It handled bulk Remington about as well as anything, but refused Federal Champion. It was OK with target ammo and the hotter CCI ammo, but nothing special. The serial number puts this one in the production of 1969. To me there is a great difference in ptotential between a stock 10/22 and one with a target barrel and lighter trigger, but I guess you are not among the admirers of going this route. I hope to end up with a rifle that will perform reasonably well for me in 100-yard smallbore sporter competition. It won't be capable of challenging the Anschutzs or Coopers, but it should give me a lot of pleasure. Even if I can't solve the current problems, it would still be a heckuva single-shot target gun for a small price. I was able to produce one-hole, five-shot groups yesterday at 50', which is not whiz-bang, but it made me happy, and the previous stock version of itself could not do that.
Ruger Mark III (VQ trigger, extractor, and grips)
Ruger 10/22, Green Mtn. barrel, VQ hammer,
Hogue stock
Marlin 982VS .22 mag.
Mossberg 144 (club loaner)
H&R Ultra Varmint Rifle .223
Snub nose S&W Model 10 (M&P) revolver,.38 Special

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bearandoldman
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Post by bearandoldman » Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:10 pm

I love accuracy and like to think I can make a stock gun shoot well. I am just not a believer in a lot of aftermarket stuff, just love to have fun shooting and see how well the stock gun will perform. The factory trigger is pretty heavy and I have my local guy do all my guns, Ruger and other. I have a 10/22T and a DSP and they both shoot about equal, big problem with me is the operator. Also have a 4 digit Oct 1964 carbine and a later birch stocked carbine as well. Have found that the T and the DSP shoot the best with a pressure pad near the front of the forearm and the carbine shoot well with the barrel band. It all depends on the ammo, some shoot one good and the others mediocre. Have given some thought to sending the barrel from the DSP to Nemohunter and he will do his magic on it for $85.00, that is less than the cost of an aftermarket barrel and have heard a lot of good things about his work. I haven't been shooting the 10/22's lately some other guns have taken priority, like a Nylon 66 and an ATD clone, and lately a Marlin .38/.357 1894C. Shot this group at 25 yard with it before the waather got cold. Most of the 22's I have will shoot pretty much under a half inch at 25 yards with the right ammo and the right day and probably better yet with the right operator, have auto's levers and pumps and more than one brand of auto.Image
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Post by purchawk » Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:55 pm

Well, that's great shooting, and I am not saying anything against what you like and what you want to shoot. I envy the line-up of guns you have.

I might have asked Nemo to work on my original barrel, but I didn't know what he does (still don't) except for reading his greatly helpful, expert comments on this forum.

I am not a great shooter--just a relatively competent one who returned to shooting in 2009 after almost 50 years of not touching a gun. Shooting now gives me incredible pleasure.

As I said, I'm interested in reaching out to that NRA 8" bull at 100 yards. Twenty-five yards is fun, and I shoot at that distance sometimes and at 50 yards, but 100 is where I find the most challenge to my modest skill and shaky eyesight.

My county sportsmen's club puts on great smallbore competitions, with just the right mix of seriousness, a safely run line, fun, and fellowhip. The former state champ in NRA smallbore and high-power drives 4 hours to get to our Sun. shoots, and he cleans everyone's clock, yet it is a honor to be on the line with him and the other fine veteran shooters.

I came to beleive that a 10/22 with an aftermarket barrel and hammer would give me something I could shoot with at these competitions, and despite all the difficulty with it (which I didn't anticipate) this has been a great learning experience and immensely rewarding--even if I never get the darned rifle to function well and I can't score any X's on that 100-yard target. :wink:
Ruger Mark III (VQ trigger, extractor, and grips)
Ruger 10/22, Green Mtn. barrel, VQ hammer,
Hogue stock
Marlin 982VS .22 mag.
Mossberg 144 (club loaner)
H&R Ultra Varmint Rifle .223
Snub nose S&W Model 10 (M&P) revolver,.38 Special

SD Handgunner
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Post by SD Handgunner » Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:11 pm

One thing to make note of when replacing the hammer spring assembly is the direction the slot on the washer on the bottom of the hammer spring is oriented. If I remember correctly when inserting the bottom end of this spring assembly into the trigger housing the slot on that washer is supposed to be UP. I got mine turned around one time and believe it or not but it caused failures to fire.

I also installed an aftermarket hammer spring (I think it was Volquartsen) and also experienced failures to fire so I went back to the factory Ruger Hammer Spring.

As per the tight chamber, I have a Ruger MKII that has a super tight chamber. It had constant failures to fire and failures to extract. I finally went to a Gunsmith and we polished the chamber ever so slightly (0000 steel wool soaked in oil wrapped around a worn out cleaning brush is what he used to polish my chamber) and my problems went away for the most part. Now if I keep things clean I no longer have problems.

Good luck.

Larry

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purchawk
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Post by purchawk » Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:30 pm

Thanks, Larry, all good advice. I took special note of the instructions to put the hammer spring strut (that's what I think it's called) in with the notch up.

I have a really tight chamber on a Mark III pistol that I use for .22 bullseye competition, and I have some trouble with it. I might just try that oiled steel wool trick. I often find tiny, half-moons of lead on my shooting rug after a round of fire, and it finally dawned on me it was from the tight chamber shaving off pieces of the bullets.
Ruger Mark III (VQ trigger, extractor, and grips)
Ruger 10/22, Green Mtn. barrel, VQ hammer,
Hogue stock
Marlin 982VS .22 mag.
Mossberg 144 (club loaner)
H&R Ultra Varmint Rifle .223
Snub nose S&W Model 10 (M&P) revolver,.38 Special

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Post by Bullseye » Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:46 am

Before doing anything to the barrel, I'd contact Green Mountain with your observations and concerns. They may offer you a remedy under warranty. Changing any of their specifications may invalidate it. If they don't offer any assistance then I'd look at polishing or reaming the chamber.

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purchawk
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Post by purchawk » Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:42 am

Thanks Bullseye; sage advice, as always.

I'm contacting a retired machinist friend (who shoots .22 bullseye competition with me) and ask him to measure the tolerances I don't have the tools to deal with.

That should guide me in deciding what to do.
Ruger Mark III (VQ trigger, extractor, and grips)
Ruger 10/22, Green Mtn. barrel, VQ hammer,
Hogue stock
Marlin 982VS .22 mag.
Mossberg 144 (club loaner)
H&R Ultra Varmint Rifle .223
Snub nose S&W Model 10 (M&P) revolver,.38 Special

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bearandoldman
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Post by bearandoldman » Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:47 am

purchawk wrote:Thanks Bullseye; sage advice, as always.

I'm contacting a retired machinist friend (who shoots .22 bullseye competition with me) and ask him to measure the tolerances I don't have the tools to deal with.

That should guide me in deciding what to do.
Too bad you traded in the stock barrel, that way you could swap it back and see if the problem went away.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
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purchawk
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Post by purchawk » Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:50 am

I may be able to retrieve it for a test.
Ruger Mark III (VQ trigger, extractor, and grips)
Ruger 10/22, Green Mtn. barrel, VQ hammer,
Hogue stock
Marlin 982VS .22 mag.
Mossberg 144 (club loaner)
H&R Ultra Varmint Rifle .223
Snub nose S&W Model 10 (M&P) revolver,.38 Special

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bearandoldman
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Post by bearandoldman » Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:12 am

purchawk wrote:I may be able to retrieve it for a test.
That should get you on the right track and maybe even the right train. If all works good then you know the barrel is at fault. I try to steer away from aftermarket parts for the reason that sometimes they bring more problems than needed. I do use VQ sears in my Ruger pistols andhave had no problems, I also buy most everything from my local gunsmith/dealer and have for the 46 years he hs been in busness, they take good care of their customers.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
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Post by purchawk » Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:15 am

Yeah, I read you. I got my barrel and parts from my local dealer, who got them from Brownell's, which is located in our county only 25 miles away. My dealer takes terrific care of me, so no worries on that score. He's a great friend and shoots with us in .22 bullseye. Life is good in that regard!
Ruger Mark III (VQ trigger, extractor, and grips)
Ruger 10/22, Green Mtn. barrel, VQ hammer,
Hogue stock
Marlin 982VS .22 mag.
Mossberg 144 (club loaner)
H&R Ultra Varmint Rifle .223
Snub nose S&W Model 10 (M&P) revolver,.38 Special

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bearandoldman
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Post by bearandoldman » Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:21 am

purchawk wrote:Yeah, I read you. I got my barrel and parts from my local dealer, who got them from Brownell's, which is located in our county only 25 miles away. My dealer takes terrific care of me, so no worries on that score. He's a great friend and shoots with us in .22 bullseye. Life is good in that regard!
Glad to hear that, your local dealer will usually match any one elses price ad if not he will be very close. And he is ther when you need him and the discount dealer is not. I have bought a lot of guns in the years past and damn few came from any other place. Anythig I buy there has a sticker price and then an olman price, which is a little lower.
Swap the barrels nd give it a try and you will eliminate one variable.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
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Post by purchawk » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:16 am

Thanks for the advice.

When I reinstalled the original barrel, the problems disappeared, so I'm sending the Green Mtn. back to Brownell's.
Ruger Mark III (VQ trigger, extractor, and grips)
Ruger 10/22, Green Mtn. barrel, VQ hammer,
Hogue stock
Marlin 982VS .22 mag.
Mossberg 144 (club loaner)
H&R Ultra Varmint Rifle .223
Snub nose S&W Model 10 (M&P) revolver,.38 Special

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bearandoldman
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Post by bearandoldman » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:57 am

purchawk wrote:Thanks for the advice.

When I reinstalled the original barrel, the problems disappeared, so I'm sending the Green Mtn. back to Brownell's.
What I been telling you? I didn't get this old being totally stupid. Glad to hear that you have narrowed the problem down to the cause, now it can be take care of. I would think seriously of sending that factory barely to Nemohunter and 85 bucks will get it back a tack driver. Having worked as a service tech for most of my life, you got to know the cause before you can fix. Good luck and have fun. Got to get my 10/22T or DSP ouT when it warms up, they have not had any rnge time since late last summer.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
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