Piller bedding a CZ 452!

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chadflys
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Piller bedding a CZ 452!

Post by chadflys » Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:25 am

My CZ has great potential, some days good, some bad. I have noticed the barrel shifts in the stock. I'm going to have to piller and bed. SO what are the best pillers to buy?

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Chadflys

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Post by Yleefox » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:48 am

When I pillar bedded my Ruger, I went to the hardware store and looked around in the screws, nuts, washers, etc., area until I found a suitable piece that I thought would work nicely. It had to have a hole through it that was of large enough to work and I wanted the outside of it to have a shape that the bedding compound could grip. I found some little do-dad and after degreasing it, installed it. It worked great and cost less than a dollar.

You might give this a try too.

Yleefox

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Post by recumbent » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:48 pm

What model CZ do you have?
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chadflys
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Post by chadflys » Mon Oct 12, 2009 11:04 am

I have the CZ 452 Varmint.

I took out the front barrel lug a couple days and it seemed to make a huge difference. I didn't have a lot of time, but with a good 15-20mph quartering tailwind it grouped super nice at 25yds. I'd say.25-.35 I'm guessing with the uncalibrated eye. The holes were slightly larger than a .22 bullet. My shot seemed predictable. Maybe I should leave it like that. Or would that cause stress in other area's?

If I piller it I just want what's best with the least likelyhood of screwing it up worse.

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Chadflys

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Post by recumbent » Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:18 pm

B4 pillar bedding try this.
I have had the best luck bedding a 452 Varmint with out pillars.
The varmint has 1 stock screw in the action an the 2nd screw in the barrel lug. That is a lot of weight on only 1 action screw if you do away with the barrel lug.

Try this first, if it doesn't help I have a few tips on bedding.

CZ 452 Varmint 22LR accurizing tips.

Free float the barrel from the Lug forward so that a thickness of 2 business cards or 2 strips cut from a file folder will freely slide between the barrel and stock back to the barrel lug. The easiest way to accomplish this is to use deep well socket and 80 grit sand paper.

When finished, seal the wood with a finish like tung oil, polyurethane or something similar. Give it 2 or 3 coats letting dry between coats.

Next is the barrel lug. The lug slides freely in a dovetail on the bottom of the barrel.
Remove it and take it to the hardware store with you. Get a metric socket head (allen head) set screw that is short in length. We will use this to secure the lug to the barrel.

Now thread the set screw into the lug but do not tighten it yet.

Put the action and lug into the stock. Screw the action screw into the lug just a little and also finger tighten the rear action screw.

Now using the front screw center the lug in the stock hole. Remove the screw and tighten the set screw this will secure the lug in the dovetail.

Next, you do NOT want the action screw to touch the set screw in the lug.
So to check that put a drop of fingernail polish on the end of the stock/lug screw, let dry and then thread into lug and tighten. Remove the screw and look at the fingernail polish. If it touched the set screw the fingernail polish will be marred or have marks on it. If it touched you will need to grind or file 1 or 2 threads off the screw to shorten it.

I have found that my Czs shoot the best with 24 inch lbs of torque on both the front and rear action screws, yours may vary.

If you have access to a torque wrench in inch lbs when you get to the range start at about 18 in lbs and shoot some 5 shot groups and try different settings until you get to the “Sweet Spot”.

Good luck and have fun!

Recumbent (Bob)
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chadflys
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Post by chadflys » Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:03 am

Thanks...I am almost there then. I have done everything up to the set screw to sinch the lug down. I'll give it a try and let you know how it works out sometime in the future. That will take me some time since I'm not getting to the range as much as I'd like.

Thanks,

Chadflys

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update...

Post by chadflys » Tue Oct 20, 2009 4:14 pm

Well I have not bedded and pillered it yet. I did the set screw trick as you said. I think it will help. When I started playing with the torque settings. I could see the barrel/ stock gap widening. Then drastically narrowing when I started tightening the front screw. I experimented with thin flat 5/16 washer that fit the from hole perfectly and rechecked the gap changes as I tightened.......no visible movement! That's good right??? I hope to test it at the range soon. I also did the lipstick test and found 3 small spots touching in the inlet. I smoothed them off and nothing touching now...I hope I'm on the right track.

What do you think?

Chadflys

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Post by recumbent » Sun Oct 25, 2009 8:23 am

I think you are on the right track, shooting it will tell the story.
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