refinishing advise

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chadflys
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refinishing advise

Post by chadflys » Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:08 pm

I know there is some good experinece here. Got any tips on refinishing both the stock and blueing the barrel? I got the Birchwood stock and blueing kit. So far I have just followed the instructions in the kit I have the barrel almost perfectly prepared and the stock I'm still working on. I dont want to take off too much wood. I have no idea what kind of wood the stock is. But its an old winchester 67A youth model. When dry its a very light nateral wood with a hint of orange. When wet its a very pretty orangeish brown which I'd like. So....not to sure if I should put the walnut stain on that came with the kit.....I'll try to get some pics up, but I have to leave town tomorrow. I'll be back Friday. Untill then I'll enjoy reading everyone elses experiencel

Thanks,

Chad

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refinishing

Post by stork » Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:18 am

Regarding metal prep, make absolutely sure there is NO-ZERO-NADA residue from a fingerprint or any possible contamination from any oils or greases. If there is, the blueing solution won't stick to that spot and you will see the fingerprint on the metal. Before applying the blueing, warm up the barreled action in the wife's stove until it gets hot to the touch, but is still possible to handle (there is a temperature that is suggested but I can't remember it for the life of me). I would turn down a couple of wood dowels so one fits snug into the bore and the other fits into the rear of the action. That way you will have a couple of handles to hold on with and not touch the metal. Also wear a new pair of cotton gloves to avoid any hand oils coming into contact with the metal. Apply the blueing solution with new cotton swabs in long even strokes. It will turn a horrible shade of rust. Don't worry, all blueing is, is controlled rust.

You can add several coats but go over the metal between coats with a well oil soaked wad of 0000 steel wool to polish off the surface rust. Make sure you clean the metal again before adding the next coat.

If you sand off the old finish, try to use a sanding block. That way you won't get dishing and hollows in the wood. Don't worry about adding any stain. If you like the natural wood color. Tru Oil will darken the wood slightly. The first several coats will soak into the wood. There is nothing like the palm of your hand to work the Tru Oil into the wood. You will be a mess and will have to clean up for a while, but the end result is worth it. My last 10/22 had 17 coats of Tru Oil and it looked fantastic.

Enjoy the process, the end result is well worth the effort.

FWIW
Stork
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KAZ
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Post by KAZ » Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:39 am

Hey Chad, looks like your rifle is coming together! Here is what I did to my 40X. I sanded it down first to 320, then 400, then 600 being careful to use a sanding block on the straights. Then I wiped it down with Mineral Spirits. Then a first coat of Miniwax Tung Oil Finish(resist using other cheaper brands) mixed with 1/2 Mineral Spirits. This thinner mix will allow the TO to fill the wood. Dry for 24 hours. Sand with the 600,wipe with MS, and hand rub with straight TO, allow to dry 24 hrs. At this point my Maple Tiger Stripe was much lighter than I wanted so I mixed some miniwax Light Walnut(must be the oil based version to mix well with the TO) into the TO and after another light 600 sanding, MO wipe I hand rubbed in this mix and let dry 24. You should start to see the grain rising and the finish should start to be deeper. You can then buff it out with 0000 steel wool and repeat until you get the look you want. Be sure to not skip on the 600 sand(you can sand with the TO mix as a wet sand), as you don't want thick layers. Some of this finish is going into the wood each time. The stock gets warm and the grain pops out. Sorry for the crappy pics, this stock is killer in person after 6 hand rubbed efforts. You will get to know your stock very well! This stock has been pillar bedded and I taped off all bedding areas with blue tape. Regards
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blue68f100
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Post by blue68f100 » Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:19 pm

If you have no checking on the stock it's not a very hard job, but extremely time consuming. When your working around the but plate make sure you use a sanding block to keep from rounding the edge. If checking I like using the chemical stripper. The use a tooth brush to clean out between the fine groves.
David

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chadflys
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Post by chadflys » Thu Oct 01, 2009 11:32 am

Thanks everyone, I'll get some pics up hopefully Friday showing where I am and with a couple of specific questions. Thanks

Chad

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Post by chadflys » Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:12 pm

Is there a better brand or better product....What is the best blueing agent?

Chad

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