Stainless 22/45 Target Model ... and dry fire question

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FourCornerm'n
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Stainless 22/45 Target Model ... and dry fire question

Post by FourCornerm'n » Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:14 pm

I was privileged to help at the Colorado State B.E. Championships last week end in our small town. Two shooters from the Olympic facilities in Colorado Springs and other exceptional shooters, including a High Master, were there. Among B.E. shooters using Rugers, I've yet to see the 5 1/2" Target Model in stainless. Several blued Target Models, but no stainless. Is there a difference in quality of the metal, between stainless and blued, making bulls eye competitors favor blued guns?

I'm determined, in retirement, to be the best bulls eye shooter I can become. Wish I'd rediscovered bulls eye much earlier. I'm dry firing by exchanging the bolt from my second gun (which is the stainless gun that I'll soon be moving up to be my primary bulls eye gun) for the purpose. This 'dry fire' bolt is set up with a surplus firing pin stop and a broken firing pin that cannot reach the chamber face. But, my left forearm is temporarily weakened and painful, so I'm wondering if I can devote a surplus recoil spring for dry firing, after clipping some of its coils so that I can more easily pull the bolt back as much as I'd like?

BTW, one of the Olympic contenders recommended dry firing using a non textured white wall with no markings and focusing on keeping the red dot in the center of the scope. I said, "and concentrating on keeping the dot from moving during the dry fire shot". His response was that primary focus should be on the trigger work with the conscious visual focus being to keep the dot centered in the scope field of view. A steady dot during trigger release will come with time. Interesting.

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Bullseye
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Post by Bullseye » Sun Aug 03, 2014 5:17 pm

The advice you were given is great for developing a strong "follow-through". An important component of accurate bullseye shooting. Focusing on the trigger pull and not the shot, is much like a martial art - the proper technique when applied correctly provides the positive results.

The difference you're seeing between finishes is mostly based on the volume of blued models that people have purchased. There are far more of them than the stainless target versions around.

Clipping the recoil spring will reduce some of the bolt tension but most of the felt tension comes from the mainspring. Once the hammer is cocked, there is no need to retract the bolt any farther.

Working on steadying your hold is important. Work to build up muscle stamina and prevent any trembling in your hands and arms. However, proper focus on technique will result in the highest hit values on the target.

R,
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