My new LCR .22

greener · Post by **greener** » Sat Sep 22, 2012 4:22 pm

Seems to be an abnormal amount of lead splattering.

bigfatdave · Post by **bigfatdave** » Sat Sep 22, 2012 6:42 pm

Jack D wrote:I'm now trying to come up with ideas to minimize the lead spraying or, at least, the cleanup afterword.

Maybe a dry-lube spray, like Liquid Wrench?

greener · Post by **greener** » Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:09 pm

My Model 17 after 100+ rounds. The Taurus 94 looks much the same. No lead splatter. I'd have a chat with Ruger about the lead splatter.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:09 am

Curious as to whether it is ammo problem or gun problem. Possibly another brand of ammo may make a difference.

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:10 am

Wow that's a lot of leading. It almost appears the timing is off a little. Maybe like what was said, the gun needs some forcing cone work. On my S&W 617, I don't get any of this leading. My 617 looks like Mr Greener's model 17 after a range session.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 11:56 am

bearandoldman wrote:Curious as to whether it is ammo problem or gun problem. Possibly another brand of ammo may make a difference.

That's what I'm wondering, too. Perhaps copper plated bullets would make a difference.

I'm also curious to know if other LCR 22's have similar problems. One thing I have noticed is the difference between cylinders like Greeners 17 and the LCR. The LCR cylinder is deeply fluted leaving little metal around the chambers and his 17 has much more metal surrounding the chambers. The forcing barrel/cone is also a much thinner tube where it mates with the cylinder. I don't know if this makes a difference.

bigfatdave · Post by **bigfatdave** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 12:06 pm

It would seem that diagnosing would require a variety of ammunition and controlled conditions, changing only one thing at a time.

Not exactly a fun afternoon on the range, shooting 3-4 culinders, inspecting, cleaning, switching ammo, shooting 3-4 cylinders, cleaning, switching ammo, shooting 3-4 cylinders, cleaning, switching ammo, shooting 3-4 cylinders, cleaning, switching ammo ... and then repeating everything with a variety of lubricant agents to reduce the leading?

Perhaps I would have fun doing such a thing over a couple afternoons, IF I had a backyard range and the free time, but I've found that most people dislike repetitive tasks (and the record-keeping) associated with troubleshooting.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 1:13 pm

bigfatdave wrote:It would seem that diagnosing would require a variety of ammunition and controlled conditions, changing only one thing at a time.

It wouldn't be so bad if that lead came off easier. I've got it looking pretty good again and almost dread messing it up again. I have some Remington copper clads to try, so I guess that is next up. Fortunately, I have my own range, in the shop, 150' away. I like the idea of a silicon (dry) spray. I may try that, too, although I'm not convinced it will do the trick. Oils and greases sound messy.

As far as shooting and accuracy goes, it is very good. They replaced the hammer (no reason given) and it made a huge difference in the trigger pull and smoothness. It's like they did a trigger job on it. Functionally, it is great. This paper plate target was fired rapid fire from 18'-20' as fast as I could pull the trigger. Emptying each cylinder in 3-4 seconds. The white is 6.25" diameter. I did three plates like this and they all looked similar.

greener · Post by **greener** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 7:14 pm

Looks like it shoots pretty well.

greener · Post by **greener** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:55 am

I did a search for lead splattering. A bunch of it was about how to tell if you had lead splattering. The rest seemed to be everything around the cylinder: alignment, timing, forcing cone, crane alignment
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread. ... tting-Lead

Seems that making sure that the revolver is really clean in and around the forcing cone was a common way to stop lead splatter.

Also, wearing glasses while shooting was thought to be a good idea to prevent injury chunks of lead. For us lifetime "four eyes" types, that is not a problem. For folks who can see, safety glasses are always a good idea. One of my daughters took some stitches in her eye from revolver splatter and she was ~6-8 feet behind and to the side of the shooter.

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:39 am

I'm betting a change of ammo will give a big improvement. I shot almost as many rounds, 350, but not a lot of lead stuck using the copper plate Federal.

From everything I've read, LCRs are designed and machined to not require any fitting, even the barrel/cylinder gap.

On mine, I got a lot of powder residue on the cylinder and topstrap, back to the end of the cylinder flutes. I had a V shaped line of lead 2/3 back on the topstrap, that popped loose using a piece of old plastic gift card.

I got three spots of lead on the frame around the forcing cone. I didn't have any lead on the crane or the outside of the cylinder, just a little on the face.

Hakaman · Post by **Hakaman** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:20 pm

The white is 6.25" diameter. I did three plates like this and they all looked similar.

I appreciate that you used an ethnically equal paper plate. We wouldn't want to 'offend' anyone in the process. Nice shooting BTW. I sure would consider getting the forcing cone widened.
Haka

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:29 pm

I'm betting a change of ammo will give a big improvement. I shot almost as many rounds, 350, but not a lot of lead stuck using the copper plate Federal.

That's what I'm hoping. I have a box of Remington copper clads to try next. All of the leading has been with Federal bulk (525 rds) bare lead and Blaser bulk (525 rds) ammo. The blasers were covered with sticky wax and I didn't like them, even though the entire box fired without any failures. The only clads I've fired were Mini Mags and I didn't fire enough of them to know what they do and I wasn't aware of the problem then either. I do get a lot of powder residue, but that just wipes right off with a cloth dampened with Hoppe's. If copper clads solve the problem, then it won't be a problem.....I'll just use copper clads. They're much cleaner anyway and my fingers won't get black from handling them.

Other than the leading problem, I'm very happy with the way it handles and shoots. And it's a dream to carry. After a few minutes, I don't even know it's there.

Thanks for the link, Greener. Wrapping a sheet of paper around the gun while I fire it is a good idea. It will be interesting to see what happens to the paper.

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:46 pm

Hakaman wrote: I sure would consider getting the forcing cone widened.
Haka

The forcing cone on these is only 1/16th thick, extends about 1/8 from the frame. Looks a little odd compared to most revolvers. It doesn't have a visible taper, just a smooth tube the same diameter as the grooves.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:19 pm

Pics of the forcing cone and mating cylinder end. Prior to cleaning.