I'm sure that what I'm about to ask has been answered in the forums, so I apologize up front. There's a lot of information and just when I think I got it, I get derailed.
So here we go.
1. If I get the Volquartsen MKII hammer bushing I can use either the OEM hammer or the Volquartsen MKII hammer correct? Is the VQ hammer a "good" upgrade or does the bushing (removal of mag disconnect) make the real difference?
2. If I decide to get a "drop in" Accurizer kit should I get the MKII or MKIII version? Does this choice depend on whether or not I have the MKII bushing? Why or why not?
Thanks, I'm new to the forum and there's a LOT of good information, more than I can sort out.
Bill
MK III upgrade again
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Welcome to Guntalk-Online!
Yes, you can either use the original or use a VQ hammer. I haven't seen any appreciable difference in the VQ hammer or just by using the OEM hammer. If your just wanting to improve the trigger pull/feel the sear is the real part that makes the improvement. Adding a Mark II style bushing removes the mag safety and provides the proper spacing for the hammer in the frame when all the mag disconnector parts are removed.
R,
Bullseye
1. If I get the Volquartsen MKII hammer bushing I can use either the OEM hammer or the Volquartsen MKII hammer correct? Is the VQ hammer a "good" upgrade or does the bushing (removal of mag disconnect) make the real difference?
Yes, you can either use the original or use a VQ hammer. I haven't seen any appreciable difference in the VQ hammer or just by using the OEM hammer. If your just wanting to improve the trigger pull/feel the sear is the real part that makes the improvement. Adding a Mark II style bushing removes the mag safety and provides the proper spacing for the hammer in the frame when all the mag disconnector parts are removed.
If you decide to get the kit then you must choose which upgrade you want for your pistol. Is the main purpose to just improve the trigger, or is it to also remove the mag safety? If you just want to improve the trigger and leave the safety alone then the Mark III version is for you. If you also intend to remove the mag safety too then getting the Mark II kit with a bushing is the way to go. Neither kit comes with a hammer bushing. But the kits also come with other things that are unnecessary, like the extended bolt release and the hammer. I like to use the factory hammers. So a target sear, target trigger, and a Mark II bushing should do it if I'm reading your original posting correctly.2. If I decide to get a "drop in" Accurizer kit should I get the MKII or MKIII version? Does this choice depend on whether or not I have the MKII bushing? Why or why not?
R,
Bullseye
-
Coach1
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 210
- Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:09 pm
- Location: Apex North Carolina
Mark III - What mods?
Hi Bill and welcome to the forum.
I think you will be very happy with the suggestions Bullseye makes... limit the parts replaced to just those that make a difference. But be warned.. the target sear and trigger will net a significant reduction in the trigger pull / break from the original factory feel. You may easily end up with a trigger break at 2 pounds. That is relatively light and you have to really want that. I think the sear has the biggest influence for trigger pull reduction.
Enjoy your pistol and Be Safe.
I think you will be very happy with the suggestions Bullseye makes... limit the parts replaced to just those that make a difference. But be warned.. the target sear and trigger will net a significant reduction in the trigger pull / break from the original factory feel. You may easily end up with a trigger break at 2 pounds. That is relatively light and you have to really want that. I think the sear has the biggest influence for trigger pull reduction.
Enjoy your pistol and Be Safe.
"You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need." The Rolling Stones
-
bigfatdave
- Master contributor
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:22 am
- Location: near Camp Perry
Re: Mark III - What mods?
I'll second everything there ... Dr Bullseye's advice will get you to a great target gun for minimal cost.Coach1 wrote:Hi Bill and welcome to the forum.
I think you will be very happy with the suggestions Bullseye makes... limit the parts replaced to just those that make a difference. But be warned.. the target sear and trigger will net a significant reduction in the trigger pull / break from the original factory feel. You may easily end up with a trigger break at 2 pounds. That is relatively light and you have to really want that. I think the sear has the biggest influence for trigger pull reduction.
Enjoy your pistol and Be Safe.
Don't forget to clear your work area and the floor around it! It helps to spot the missing parts before you need them for re-assembly.
I found that pulling the parts out and segregating them into functional groups on a clean surface made the second mkIII I upgraded go much more smoothly than the kludge I caused doing the first one.
-
Coach1
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 210
- Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:09 pm
- Location: Apex North Carolina
Mark III mods.. a few more thoughts
Bill... BFD's post sparked a few thoughts that might be useful. Be sure you keep Bullseye's tech detailed strip references / pictures handy unless you are very familiar with this work on a Mark III. Also, you cannot replace the trigger and sear without first removing the hammer, bushing, mag safety & spring etc. Remember to not drive the hammer pivot pin all the way out of the left side of the frame. Leave it in far enough to hold the manual safety in place. And if you push the pin in a little .. once all the other bits are out.. be sure to hold the safety up against the frame or it will ride on the pin and .. ping! - out pops the safety detent pin and spring. They are tiny, easy to lose and fussy to get back in place. I speak from experience. Good luck and enjoy the adventure.
"You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need." The Rolling Stones
Hi, Bill! Welcome to the best gun forum you'll ever find.
I have a stainless bull barrel Mark III. I did the Mark II bushing about a year ago, then the whole accurizing kit a couple of weeks ago. I bought the stainless trigger version Mark II kit, with no mag safety. I used the kit hammer, just to do the "works", and I also got the VQ disconnector.
I did not want a lighter trigger pull, so I did not use the VQ springs in the kit. I didn't use the extended bolt release, as I can work the original just fine, and the extended one looks like it would be rough on a holster.
I have an approximately three pound pull using the Ruger springs, a liitle less than before the kit. I just wanted to remove all the slop, not lighten my pull. You have to leave in a little pre-travel and post-travel on the trigger stops, or the trigger will not reset. I still got a major reduction in total travel and slop.
I haven't been to the range yet (hopefully Thursday, calling for 70 degrees so I actually took vacation time to go shoot). In dryfire, and checking strikes with used cases, I am very happy with it. I think it will do great at the range.
I have a stainless bull barrel Mark III. I did the Mark II bushing about a year ago, then the whole accurizing kit a couple of weeks ago. I bought the stainless trigger version Mark II kit, with no mag safety. I used the kit hammer, just to do the "works", and I also got the VQ disconnector.
I did not want a lighter trigger pull, so I did not use the VQ springs in the kit. I didn't use the extended bolt release, as I can work the original just fine, and the extended one looks like it would be rough on a holster.
I have an approximately three pound pull using the Ruger springs, a liitle less than before the kit. I just wanted to remove all the slop, not lighten my pull. You have to leave in a little pre-travel and post-travel on the trigger stops, or the trigger will not reset. I still got a major reduction in total travel and slop.
I haven't been to the range yet (hopefully Thursday, calling for 70 degrees so I actually took vacation time to go shoot). In dryfire, and checking strikes with used cases, I am very happy with it. I think it will do great at the range.
* 2 Ruger Bearcat stainless, w/ EWK ejector housings & Wolff springs
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
-
blue68f100
- Master contributor
- Posts: 1997
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
- Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
Bill, Welcome to GTO
If you already have a MKII bushing to test with, check to see how much slop you have in the hammer fit. If you can wiggle the hammer sided to side, you may want to go with Clark's Oversize MKII bushing for a better fit.
To get the best trigger you need to remove one of the rotating surfaces on the bushing/hammer/pin, called stacking. Now I have used Loctite to glue the bushing to hammer with good suscess, if the gap is not too large.
If you already have a MKII bushing to test with, check to see how much slop you have in the hammer fit. If you can wiggle the hammer sided to side, you may want to go with Clark's Oversize MKII bushing for a better fit.
To get the best trigger you need to remove one of the rotating surfaces on the bushing/hammer/pin, called stacking. Now I have used Loctite to glue the bushing to hammer with good suscess, if the gap is not too large.
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
-
Coach1
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 210
- Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2010 3:09 pm
- Location: Apex North Carolina
Blue Loctite for the hammer / bushing surfaces
I read David's comments about this Blue Loctite on an earlier forum append. It sounded interesting.. and made a lot of sense, too. So i took my MkIII 22/45 slabside apart and added a dab - between the hammer hole and bushing outside surfaces - as he suggests. I will give it a run this weekend. even if there is no decernible "slop" reduction, it cannot hurt.
"You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need." The Rolling Stones
I never reported back on my upgrade.
Well with the help of the members of the board I was able to remove the magazine disconnect, install the bushing and the trigger kit. It worked like a champ.
I now have a very sweet shooting, bull barrel 22/45 MKIII. I could not have done it without you guys, thanks!
Maybe others have had the same experience, but I find the insides of the 22/45 MKIII much easier to put back together than the standard MKIII (non 22/45).
Thanks again. I'll remain in lurking mode for a while.
Well with the help of the members of the board I was able to remove the magazine disconnect, install the bushing and the trigger kit. It worked like a champ.
I now have a very sweet shooting, bull barrel 22/45 MKIII. I could not have done it without you guys, thanks!
Maybe others have had the same experience, but I find the insides of the 22/45 MKIII much easier to put back together than the standard MKIII (non 22/45).
Thanks again. I'll remain in lurking mode for a while.