I replaced my standard trigger and sear with Volquartsen target models. Occasionally I now have problems shooting my third or fourth round in rapid fire. The first round will fire, the trigger will return forward (maybe not the entire way) and when I pull the trigger again nothing happens. If I physically push trigger forward it usually seams to fix the problem and the next pull of the trigger will fire. It has taken a few pushes of the trigger a couple times to get the weapon ready to fire again on a few occasions.
My guess is for some reason the sear is not fully resetting and putting the trigger in the ready position. Does this sound plausible? What could I have done to cause this?
Thanks in advance
Jim
Mark III problem
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Yes this is very plausible. The disconnector is not resetting on the sear when the trigger is returning forwards.
Did you install a VQ trigger upgrade kit or did you just install the piece parts?
What model # VQ trigger did you install?
There's two possible fixes depending on the answers to the questions above.
R,
Bullseye
Did you install a VQ trigger upgrade kit or did you just install the piece parts?
What model # VQ trigger did you install?
There's two possible fixes depending on the answers to the questions above.
R,
Bullseye
try 2
I stripped the weapon down again to see if I could find a problem. I found the sear spring looking like this. I believe in one of my first attempts to put the weapon back together after replacing the factory sear I may have put the spring incorrectly. I had a second spring and replaced it.
Everything went back together fine. I have dry fired the weapon a couple times and everything seems to work. I can still push the trigger forward just a hair though after I dry fire. I'm going to go to the range tomorrow and see if this worked. If this did not fix the problem, I do not know where to go next. Any suggestions??
Thanks
Jim
Everything went back together fine. I have dry fired the weapon a couple times and everything seems to work. I can still push the trigger forward just a hair though after I dry fire. I'm going to go to the range tomorrow and see if this worked. If this did not fix the problem, I do not know where to go next. Any suggestions??
Thanks
Jim
ACTA NON VERBA
Well you clearly bent that spring when installing it. Did you install the new sear spring oriented according to this picture?
The installation of this sping incorrectly would place the sear in a improper orientation and could cause the symptom you've described. You might want to recheck the installation and verify the spring's position. If it is correct your problem should be fixed.
R,
Bullseye
The installation of this sping incorrectly would place the sear in a improper orientation and could cause the symptom you've described. You might want to recheck the installation and verify the spring's position. If it is correct your problem should be fixed.
R,
Bullseye
I installed the new spring exactly like that. It definetely helped. With the bent spring I shot 150 rounds and had this problem at least 15 times. Today I only had the problem twice.
I guess I'm gonna have to bring the factory trigger and sear with me and start swapping pieces one by one until I find the problem.
Any other suggestions?
Jim
I guess I'm gonna have to bring the factory trigger and sear with me and start swapping pieces one by one until I find the problem.
Any other suggestions?
Jim
ACTA NON VERBA
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
[quote="kpuscg04"]I installed the new spring exactly like that. It definetely helped. With the bent spring I shot 150 rounds and had this problem at least 15 times. Today I only had the problem twice.
I guess I'm gonna have to bring the factory trigger and sear with me and start swapping pieces one by one until I find the problem.
Any other suggestions?
Worked many years as a service tech and machinist and modified all kinds of engines etc and thisi one old saying relly holds true.
"Only make one modifcation at a time or you will not know which one helped or hindered the performance."
I guess I'm gonna have to bring the factory trigger and sear with me and start swapping pieces one by one until I find the problem.
Any other suggestions?
Worked many years as a service tech and machinist and modified all kinds of engines etc and thisi one old saying relly holds true.
"Only make one modifcation at a time or you will not know which one helped or hindered the performance."
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
How does the new trigger operate in the pistol? Is it a tight fit in the trigger well? Did the disconnector pin fit into the top of the trigger tightly or does the trigger move freely when swung like a pendulum? You'll have to lift the trigger out of the frame to check for the swing.
If the trigger fits tightly then you may need to polish down the sides of the upper block a little to narrower where it fits into the frame. If the trigger does not rotate freely on the disconnector pin then you may have to open up the hole slightly with the next sized drill bit.
Since you've said that there's room in front of the trigger - because you described physically pushing it forward to reset the sear. Then there must be a reason why the trigger isn't traveling fully forward on its own.
Those are two possiblilities but there is one other. The trigger return spring is not strong enough to push the new trigger forward. Either the new trigger has the plunger hole drilled deeper, or the hole may be too narrow for the plunger causing it to drag.
You can open up the plunger hole with a drill bit if the plunger is dragging in the trigger. Measure the depth of the plunger hole in the new trigger and then compare it with the old one by measuring its plunger hole. If the new one is deeper then the spring's tension is lost on that extra space. The new trigger may not have enough spring energy to be pushed fully forward and consistently reset the sear.
There could also be a combination of all of these causing the problem. Your problem is slight so the reason is also one of a slightly out of tolerance part. Substituting the trigger with the old one would be my first step. This would tell me if my trigger is the problem or if the sear is causing it. The trigger is the easier component to remove and replace.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
If the trigger fits tightly then you may need to polish down the sides of the upper block a little to narrower where it fits into the frame. If the trigger does not rotate freely on the disconnector pin then you may have to open up the hole slightly with the next sized drill bit.
Since you've said that there's room in front of the trigger - because you described physically pushing it forward to reset the sear. Then there must be a reason why the trigger isn't traveling fully forward on its own.
Those are two possiblilities but there is one other. The trigger return spring is not strong enough to push the new trigger forward. Either the new trigger has the plunger hole drilled deeper, or the hole may be too narrow for the plunger causing it to drag.
You can open up the plunger hole with a drill bit if the plunger is dragging in the trigger. Measure the depth of the plunger hole in the new trigger and then compare it with the old one by measuring its plunger hole. If the new one is deeper then the spring's tension is lost on that extra space. The new trigger may not have enough spring energy to be pushed fully forward and consistently reset the sear.
There could also be a combination of all of these causing the problem. Your problem is slight so the reason is also one of a slightly out of tolerance part. Substituting the trigger with the old one would be my first step. This would tell me if my trigger is the problem or if the sear is causing it. The trigger is the easier component to remove and replace.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Trigger Reset Problem
Had the same problem after installing a VQ accurizing kit which includes a new trigger.
It turned out that I had the Pretravel set to tight. You must leave a little pretravel to compensate for the necessary "play" in the action.
Good Luck, KenG
It turned out that I had the Pretravel set to tight. You must leave a little pretravel to compensate for the necessary "play" in the action.
Good Luck, KenG