I've noticed that on sometimes the bolt on my Mark III hunter fails to stay open after the last round is fired. I think it may be with just one of the two magazines. I've marked the magazines to find out.
Any idea why this may be happening. I've had the pistol for a couple of months and probably only 4000-5000k rounds.
Ruger MKIII, bolt not staying open after last round
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
If it is just the one magazine, then break it down and give it a good cleaning. Inspect the follower button slot to ensure there is no dragging or burrs slowing down the follower.
If both magazines do this, then you may have some dirt or grit caught in behind the bolt stop lever. Field strip your pistol and take apart your bolt stop assembly. Give all the parts a good cleaning and inspect for chafing on the finish or rub marks on the metal. Deburr anything rubbing. Likely some of that thick shipping preservative is still there and now its begun to harden. Reassemble the pistol.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
If both magazines do this, then you may have some dirt or grit caught in behind the bolt stop lever. Field strip your pistol and take apart your bolt stop assembly. Give all the parts a good cleaning and inspect for chafing on the finish or rub marks on the metal. Deburr anything rubbing. Likely some of that thick shipping preservative is still there and now its begun to harden. Reassemble the pistol.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Thanks for the tip. Didn't see anything obvious in the magazines, so I decided to clean them. One follower had some sticky on it and a bit more grit than the other. Also decided to do a bit of cleaning in the frame. Nothing obvious, but I did find a couple of areas that makes me glad I didn't turn the weapon into MSG Cheek in 1969. I might still be doing pushups if I had.
When I finish I put a round in each magazine, inserted the magazine in the frame and verified that the bolt stop came up when I removed the round. Looks like by the time you get to removing the bolt stop assembly for cleaning, you might as well improve the trigger and a few other things, if I read your detailed strip procedures correctly.
When I finish I put a round in each magazine, inserted the magazine in the frame and verified that the bolt stop came up when I removed the round. Looks like by the time you get to removing the bolt stop assembly for cleaning, you might as well improve the trigger and a few other things, if I read your detailed strip procedures correctly.
Greener,
Check out Bullseye's page here and scroll down to a fix involving a 5/16th in. drill bit to line the receiver up. Works like a charm.
http://www.guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm
Check out Bullseye's page here and scroll down to a fix involving a 5/16th in. drill bit to line the receiver up. Works like a charm.
http://www.guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm
The company on this forum is definitely great. Plus all the help information comes from the gracious contributions of our membership. That receiver seating trick was an original idea of Boomer's that he submitted when I asked for ideas for the troubleshooting page.
R,
Bullseye
Thanks to everyone here on Guntalk! If we're helping each other out this much with information, imagine what those who come to visit on an occasional basis get from us.Boomer47, 08Aug2006, 11:12pm, One of the handiest gadgets I've made is to grind a taper on the blind end of a 5/16th in. drill bit and drive it through the bolt stop hole from the top after installing the receiver on a new/tight pistol and having trouble getting it lined up enough to install the mainspring housing/bolt stop. Saves hammering on the housing assy. to get the bolt stop in.
R,
Bullseye
There's only a few possibilities for this type of magazine failure. The magazine spring is weak. The follower button is not traveling through the track smoothly.
This is an easy problem to troubleshoot. You can mark the metal body of the magazine with a little silver sharpie marker and then start substituting parts with a known good magazine.
Start with the spring. If the spring from the marked mag fails in the good mag, and the good spring works in the marked body then the spring needs replacing.
If that doesn't reveal the problem then next, swap the entire innards. If the marked magazine fails with the good parts, and the good mag works with the suspect parts, then the magazine body is defective. Closely inspect the magazine body inside and out for any chafing, dents, gouges, or bent/bare metal in the follower button track. Inspect the follower to ensure the button is held securely and not loose in the hole.
Sometimes the button gets loose in the plastic and the top of the button cannot push up the bolt stop upwards properly. If the follower is worn then replace it with a known good part.
The key is to keep swaping parts until the culprit is located, but ensure that little rascal part also fails in a known good magazine before replacing it. Also be sure to keep the suspect defective parts separate from good ones. If you lose track it will throw off your troubleshooting standard and also skew the conclusions for repair.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
This is an easy problem to troubleshoot. You can mark the metal body of the magazine with a little silver sharpie marker and then start substituting parts with a known good magazine.
Start with the spring. If the spring from the marked mag fails in the good mag, and the good spring works in the marked body then the spring needs replacing.
If that doesn't reveal the problem then next, swap the entire innards. If the marked magazine fails with the good parts, and the good mag works with the suspect parts, then the magazine body is defective. Closely inspect the magazine body inside and out for any chafing, dents, gouges, or bent/bare metal in the follower button track. Inspect the follower to ensure the button is held securely and not loose in the hole.
Sometimes the button gets loose in the plastic and the top of the button cannot push up the bolt stop upwards properly. If the follower is worn then replace it with a known good part.
The key is to keep swaping parts until the culprit is located, but ensure that little rascal part also fails in a known good magazine before replacing it. Also be sure to keep the suspect defective parts separate from good ones. If you lose track it will throw off your troubleshooting standard and also skew the conclusions for repair.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye