MarkIIIH 678 22/45, VQ Sear sticky.

5focus · Post by **5focus** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:51 am

When I first installed it I gave it a light coating of gun oil. Now, after about 1 brick it feels sticky maybe a little polishing and dry lube on the sear would fix the problem.

Would appreciate any advice.

Don

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 8:08 am

Wecome to the forum.

This is a problem that can easily be remedied by not lubing the internal parts of the Mark II/III. Any oil will attract dirt and residue and gum up the works. The .22 LR cartridge is a very dirty type of ammunition with lots of residue and unburned powder left behind. Your problem is one reason why I keep the hammer and sear completely dry of lubrication. Here's a picture of a sear I took in a dirty 22/45 pistol.

There's powder residue throughout the frame but not on the sear. This pistol has a couple of thousand rounds through it since the last cleaning. The hammer is equally clean because no oil was placed on it. By following this recommendation you will be able to go a lot longer between internal (deep) cleanings. I can usually go 3000-5000 rounds before having to tear apart the frame and clean the internals.

Just take a clean dry rag, wipe off the internal parts, and then reinstall them.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

JimK · Post by **JimK** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:12 pm

OK Bullseye, why don't you tell us this stuff before we get ourselves into trouble?????

(kidding)
I just stripped my MKIII Hunter yesterday after running 3-4 bricks through it and man was it dirty (I only clean the barrel, chamber and breech every time I go to the range). Well, I know you know what's coming next.....after getting it all clean and pretty I thought I would give everything (hammer,sear, mag release, trigger, etc.) a nice little drop of oil to ensure everything continue running smoothly.
Now I read this thread and think, "OH SHI.....T", what do I do now? Take it down again and soak everything with solvent to get the oil off? I noticed the hammer seemed to be dragging or rubbing on something on each side as I moved it up and down yesterday, but the gun has been functioning flawlessly so I thought it was ok. Is the hammer supposed to be free of any drag?
Bullseye, what do you suggest I do? Forget it for now and really clean it upnext time or starts messing up or what?
Thanks,
Jim

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 2:46 pm

JimK wrote:I thought I would give everything (hammer,sear, mag release, trigger, etc.) a nice little drop of oil to ensure everything continue running smoothly.
Now I read this thread and think, "OH SHI.....T", what do I do now?

I've been shooting my P512 over two years now.
I enjoy 'tinkering', so a field-strip/ clean/ inspect/ lube is part of the fun.
I probably put enough GunOil into the "grip-workings" of my 22/45,
(my 10/22, Marlin-60s, Henry-survival, ...) to give BullsEye an OilSlick
in his driveway.. it comes OFF real easy the next cleaning...
My AirCompressor just blows the crud and oil out and leaves it looking
clean enough to have at the dinner-table...

(take care with an AirCompressor in that the compressor-tank/hose
will likely have some water in it, and can spray some mist on your
gun... so, consider/evaluate that BEFORE you spray... see, I told you FIRST).

When my gun(s) slip out of my hand from the recoil,
then I'll probably lighten-up a little...
Also, being "new", your getting a coating in the cracks and crevaces
that may need it long-term... like a cast-iron cooking skillet,
once it is "cured", you don't have to repeat the process.
But if you think you're ruined-the-gun, just post a
"WtS" (want-to-sell) and some of us will offer you a few bucks for it.
Take care, keep kool.

The photos aren't the best, just hand-held close-ups...
P512 BEFORE AirCompressor: with crud
P512 AFTER AirCompressor: no crud
Note: the time on the photos shows 5-minutes to mess with the garage door
and change the tire-nozzle to the AirSpray nozzle...

JimK · Post by **JimK** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 4:00 pm

Yeah, I'll just take her down again and wipe it out.

You mentioned "grips", I took those off yesterday as well and man it was awful under there. ha! I run the compressor at about 25-30psi and that works well. Good advice on blowing the water out first before using it on your gun. Learned that many years ago on wood.
Thanks,
Jim

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 4:24 pm

Jim,

You didn't harm anything, those parts may just tend to collect residue more than the others. You don't need to take your gun apart and flush it with solvent. Next time you clean, just give the hammer and sear parts a good wipe down with a clean dry rag. Don't worry about that hammer drag, as long as your hammer continues to detonate the cartridges its fine. If you start to have misfires, remove the hammer, take that clean rag and wipe out the inside of the frame.

R,
Bullseye

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 4:41 pm

JimK wrote:after running 3-4 bricks through it and man was it dirty

You didn't mention the Brand/type of ammo...

Of the "commonly available" brands,
dirtiest: Remington ( !!XX-thunderBolts-XX!!, target, Yellow)
messy: Winchester (DynaPts, Xperts)
normal: Aquila (Match Pistol, Match Target, SubSonic)
clean: Federal (#510, AM22, 711B, ...? 719)
neat: CCI (MiniMag, StdVel, GreenTag)

it does depend on the specific-type ammo within the brands
and this is in my .22 "SemiAutos".
One example, I find that Winchester-Xperts burn dirty in my P512
(or Marlin-60 ...) but burn just fine in a bolt-action.
So, how well the brass-case holds in the chamber, before release
versus the amount/burn-speed of the powder may affect how
much junk/crud is dispersed into the receiver...
Experiment, maybe something else will burn-clean AND accurate.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 5:59 pm

Of the "commonly available" brands,
dirtiest: Remington ( !!XX-thunderBolts-XX!!, target, Yellow)
messy: Winchester (DynaPts, Xperts)
normal: Aquila (Match Pistol, Match Target, SubSonic)
clean: Federal (#510, AM22, 711B, ...? 719)
neat: CCI (MiniMag, StdVel, GreenTag)

We seem to be shooting the same ammo. My local indoor range has the Remingon T-Bolts, someone left a whole box laying in the shooting area.
I said a silent thanks and shot them up. Euuwwww, yucka pooie.
I've shot a bunch of the Winchester Xpert HPs you buy at Walmart. As you put it, messy.
The Winchester Super-X HV seems to be pretty good, I'd rate it in the "normal" catagory.
I like the Aquila Pistol Match, and so does my old Std Auto.
And the Federal stuff, at least the 36gr bulk HP ammo shoots through my old auto like water through a hose. I like it. I've haven't tried the AM22 yet.
CCIs are pretty good too.

One of the other "normal" brands is an older one, don't know if they still import it or not, called El Tigre, I think. Mexican made, silver box with a picture of a big cat on it. It's got a copper plated bullet, and is pretty clean. Also a bit hotter than some of the other brands.

Joe

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:21 am

Good thread,
You guy's got that right about Remmington ammo

. I won't shoot it in any of my guns. Like many or you I get the Federal's or CCI ammo from Walmart for my MKIII Hunter, little 1965 Colt Fronteer Scout and 1970 Marlin 99 M1 and have no complaints. I get Winchester, Federal or CCI also from Walmart for my centerfires (Mini 14 and AR15 223's, S&W 686+P 38/357 and EAA Witness Elite Limited 9mm) which do very well with those brands of ammo.

Cheers,
Jim

[EDIT] JimK's post is showing up under my avatar because I had to replace this posting when I accidentally moved it while splitting the topic. Sorry for the inconvenience. - Bullseye