I have a mkIII torn down nearly all the way awaiting a replacement sear pivot pin from Ruger, and I am now inspired to add some goodies and upgrades to both my mkIII pistols.
Upgrading is mostly for a hobby/project, Honestly I can't outshoot the factory mkIII, I'm just looking to increase reliability, improved accuracy would be nice but my skills are the current limit.
I am contemplating Volquartsen's extractor, sear, trigger, hammer, and the magazine ejector gadget. I'm fairly sure I don't need the extended bolt stop or mag release, I've become comfortable with the stock controls.
I'd like to delete the magazine interlock while I'm in there, do I need to machine washers, or am I missing a drop-in part to fill the space? I'm short on tools and workspace, so I'm willing to pay for the convenience of a drop-in interlock delete.
I had planned on ordering one set and installing the parts, then repeating with the other pistol, so I have one working model to compare to.
The direct questions:
1-any opinions on the magazine ejector gadget?
2-any reason not to get the bargain bin sear from VQ?
3-do I need a upgraded disconnector?
4-will VQ's hammer help with the mag interlock removal?
5-if VQ doesn't have a drop-in mag interlock removal, does anyone else?
6-any advantage to the VQ spring kit?
Multiple Ruger mkIII upgrade questions
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
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bigfatdave
- Master contributor
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- Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:22 am
- Location: near Camp Perry
1. The mag ejector gadget is just that- a gadget. You won't need it if you remove the mag disconnector safety. The mags will fall out without the safety parts installed.
2. The bargain bin sear may have blemishes. That is why its in the bargain bin. The new sear is less than $20 at Rimfire Sports and Custom.
3. No reason to replace a perfectly good disconnector. Save your money.
4. No, the VQ hammer will do nothing for mag disconnect removal. The VQ hammer has a hole through it that has been the source of many light strikes. The factory hammer is fine to get a good trigger.
5. There's a guy on RFC who is making special replacement bushings off of my original Magsafe eliminator design drawing that will replace the Mark III mag disconnector parts. Look here to see what they look like http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... =1223#1223 He's selling them for $10 each. That bushing will eliminate the need for washers, simply take out the old parts and replace them with the new bushing - done. Otherwise you could use the washer mod found in the workshop forum here on GTOL. Check here http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showth ... p?t=284558
6. Nope, the spring kit is not necessary.
All you need is a VQ target trigger and a sear, with these you can achieve the trigger you want. The special bushing or washers can do the safety elimination and you're done. Unless you want to install a VQ exact edge extractor. But if your OEM extractor is working fine wait until it isn't then replace it.
R,
Bullseye
2. The bargain bin sear may have blemishes. That is why its in the bargain bin. The new sear is less than $20 at Rimfire Sports and Custom.
3. No reason to replace a perfectly good disconnector. Save your money.
4. No, the VQ hammer will do nothing for mag disconnect removal. The VQ hammer has a hole through it that has been the source of many light strikes. The factory hammer is fine to get a good trigger.
5. There's a guy on RFC who is making special replacement bushings off of my original Magsafe eliminator design drawing that will replace the Mark III mag disconnector parts. Look here to see what they look like http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... =1223#1223 He's selling them for $10 each. That bushing will eliminate the need for washers, simply take out the old parts and replace them with the new bushing - done. Otherwise you could use the washer mod found in the workshop forum here on GTOL. Check here http://rimfirecentral.com/forums/showth ... p?t=284558
6. Nope, the spring kit is not necessary.
All you need is a VQ target trigger and a sear, with these you can achieve the trigger you want. The special bushing or washers can do the safety elimination and you're done. Unless you want to install a VQ exact edge extractor. But if your OEM extractor is working fine wait until it isn't then replace it.
R,
Bullseye
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bigfatdave
- Master contributor
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:22 am
- Location: near Camp Perry
Bullseye, Thanks for the fast reply.
1-makes sense, thanks for the tip!
2-if I don't need as many parts, I won't worry about pinching pennies on a sear.
3-that's what I had been thinking.
4-thanks for the tip, I'll stick with the stock hammer.
5-I'll get over there and get one ordered. I actually have the washer mod bookmarked, but tools and free time are limited.
6-I suspected as much.
As to the extractor:
I have been having issues with ejected shells getting lodged between the recoil spring guide rod and the LCI, I was hoping the exact edge extractor would help. I know some people have simply removed the LCI, and I don't use the silly thing, but leaving a big open slot in the chamber area seems wrong somehow. Also, that wouldn't solve the issue of the spent casing ejecting to the LEFT rather than RIGHT and out of the ejection port.
I have, however, learned that a Saturn car key is just the right size to spear a spent shell through the mouth and haul it out.
1-makes sense, thanks for the tip!
2-if I don't need as many parts, I won't worry about pinching pennies on a sear.
3-that's what I had been thinking.
4-thanks for the tip, I'll stick with the stock hammer.
5-I'll get over there and get one ordered. I actually have the washer mod bookmarked, but tools and free time are limited.
6-I suspected as much.
As to the extractor:
I have been having issues with ejected shells getting lodged between the recoil spring guide rod and the LCI, I was hoping the exact edge extractor would help. I know some people have simply removed the LCI, and I don't use the silly thing, but leaving a big open slot in the chamber area seems wrong somehow. Also, that wouldn't solve the issue of the spent casing ejecting to the LEFT rather than RIGHT and out of the ejection port.
I have, however, learned that a Saturn car key is just the right size to spear a spent shell through the mouth and haul it out.
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bigfatdave
- Master contributor
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:22 am
- Location: near Camp Perry
Dave, that is exactly what I'd do. Here's why - if you ever have to send your pistol back to Ruger for repairs (it does happen) you can replace all the original parts back into the pistol before shipment. If they have to work on your pistol they will replace all the custom parts with factory originals. There have been some folks who've been very disappointed when their pistol returns from repair and all their expensive custom parts are gone.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
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greener
I didn't follow Bullseye's advice on the first VQ upgrade I did and bought the whole upgrade package. I didn't like the extended bolt release and replaced it with the original. I haven't had any problems with the target hammer. When I upgraded the next Ruger, I just did the sear and trigger. I can't see any difference between the pistol with the sear and trigger and the one with the sear/hammer/trigger. There may be some difference, but I'm not sensitive enough to notice it.
Add a tube of blue Loctite to your shopping list for the trigger adjustment screws. They tend to self-adjust without it.
Add a tube of blue Loctite to your shopping list for the trigger adjustment screws. They tend to self-adjust without it.
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bigfatdave
- Master contributor
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:22 am
- Location: near Camp Perry
Bullseye, that was my logic for doing a bag & tag as well ... that and the remote possibility of a future sale. (I can't imagine why I would sell my target pistols)
greener, thanks for the tip on locking down the trigger screws, now that you mention it, I need some loctite for a P22 that likes to slowly unfasten itself during rapid-fire point-shooting practice. (or maybe it does it the same with every round downrange, but there are a LOT of rounds going downrange on point-shooting day)
I should be done ordering parts by the end of the day here, hopefully they will arrive roughly when the repair parts from Ruger get here and I can get one pistol assembled and to the range.
greener, thanks for the tip on locking down the trigger screws, now that you mention it, I need some loctite for a P22 that likes to slowly unfasten itself during rapid-fire point-shooting practice. (or maybe it does it the same with every round downrange, but there are a LOT of rounds going downrange on point-shooting day)
I should be done ordering parts by the end of the day here, hopefully they will arrive roughly when the repair parts from Ruger get here and I can get one pistol assembled and to the range.