Loose Mark 2
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Loose Mark 2
Bought a Mark 2 about a month ago, and it is absolutely the loosest one I own. Take the mainspring out and the thing falls apart. The first time it took me by surprise, and the receiver hit the carpet. Still just as accurate as the rest though. Its a 1988 standard 6" with fixed sights. Totally different from the one I have to beat apart.
Re: Loose Mark 2
So... uh... "on-average"... you have nothing to complain about...swoter wrote:Mark 2 ... falls apart. Different from the one I have to beat apart.
does seem odd that you would get two extremes.
does this speak-well of the design,
in that it still performs with the loose tolerances...
I have stated many times before that the relative tightness of the Ruger Mark receiver onto the frame is of no consequence to its accuracy. The sights are an integral part of the ruger receiver, and they are fixed onto the barrel, so their position is always aligned with the bore where ever the barrel is located on the frame.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
It is easy to tighten up the frame receiver fit on any of the steel frame guns. Not so with the 22/45. On the steel frame guns you can do it like this:
Put the receiver onto the frame and check for up and down looseness atthe front. If found you put the "wings" of the frame saddle in a padded vice and gently squeeze. Go very easy here. As you get close keep checking the fit. When you have the fit you want check the REAR of the receiver for back and forth horizonal looseness. Correct the same way you corrected the front. Slow and easy here just like in front. A tight fit is MUCH nicer than a gun that falls apart!!
It may be true that it does not affect accuracy. But you will like the feel much better. On top of that if you put a scope on the gun it will want to move back and forth if the gun is loose. This is aggravating. A tight gun is always nicer than a loose one
Put the receiver onto the frame and check for up and down looseness atthe front. If found you put the "wings" of the frame saddle in a padded vice and gently squeeze. Go very easy here. As you get close keep checking the fit. When you have the fit you want check the REAR of the receiver for back and forth horizonal looseness. Correct the same way you corrected the front. Slow and easy here just like in front. A tight fit is MUCH nicer than a gun that falls apart!!
It may be true that it does not affect accuracy. But you will like the feel much better. On top of that if you put a scope on the gun it will want to move back and forth if the gun is loose. This is aggravating. A tight gun is always nicer than a loose one
God created man and woman. Samuel Colt made them equal.
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allendavis
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 76
- Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 9:27 pm
"Loose" Mark II
Swoter
I don't see a problem. The complaint I see from everyone (and one I have myself) is that the darned things are way too tight brand new out-of-the-box, and it takes a lot of usage and disassembly/reassembly to get them to loosen up to the point they aren't such a pain-in-the-butt.
If your receiver is falling off the frame without any tapping with a light rubber or nylon mallet, I'd be a tad bit concerned myself, but the design should hold everything together just fine when the gun is fully assembled. The bolt/receiver design is the main thing that makes the Ruger so darned accurate and even rifle-like.
If you can get any "rattle" or perceive any looseness between the receiver and grip frame when the gun is fully assembled, contact Ruger immediately. I think they'd make it right with you for just the cost of shipping the gun back to the factory.
My two cents' worth.
Allen
I don't see a problem. The complaint I see from everyone (and one I have myself) is that the darned things are way too tight brand new out-of-the-box, and it takes a lot of usage and disassembly/reassembly to get them to loosen up to the point they aren't such a pain-in-the-butt.
If your receiver is falling off the frame without any tapping with a light rubber or nylon mallet, I'd be a tad bit concerned myself, but the design should hold everything together just fine when the gun is fully assembled. The bolt/receiver design is the main thing that makes the Ruger so darned accurate and even rifle-like.
If you can get any "rattle" or perceive any looseness between the receiver and grip frame when the gun is fully assembled, contact Ruger immediately. I think they'd make it right with you for just the cost of shipping the gun back to the factory.
My two cents' worth.
Allen
Swoter,
Looseness does not affect accuracy, but ............. it is annoying, at least to me.
I have a 1955 vintage RST4. Oh, that's just an ordinary Ruger Standard .22 Auto with the 4.75" barrel. Anyway, when I got it the upper and lower were loose. I took it to a gunsmith and had him tighten it up.
That was 30 years ago next month. In the last 30 years I've had the upper and lower separated maybe, and I'm pushing this, maybe three times. For normal cleaning there is no reason at all to separate these parts.
A small OD military type double ended brush will get 98% of the stuff that needs cleaned out, and if it's still filthy an aerosol can of carb cleaner, break cleaner or if your rolling in money Gun Scrubber will clean it out in short order.
My little shooter is still tight, required a plastic mallet to seperate the two parts. And I'm happy with it that way.
If it doesn't bother you great, but it did me. Hopefully the next one I go to buy won't be loose. If it is I won't buy it.
Joe
Looseness does not affect accuracy, but ............. it is annoying, at least to me.
I have a 1955 vintage RST4. Oh, that's just an ordinary Ruger Standard .22 Auto with the 4.75" barrel. Anyway, when I got it the upper and lower were loose. I took it to a gunsmith and had him tighten it up.
That was 30 years ago next month. In the last 30 years I've had the upper and lower separated maybe, and I'm pushing this, maybe three times. For normal cleaning there is no reason at all to separate these parts.
A small OD military type double ended brush will get 98% of the stuff that needs cleaned out, and if it's still filthy an aerosol can of carb cleaner, break cleaner or if your rolling in money Gun Scrubber will clean it out in short order.
My little shooter is still tight, required a plastic mallet to seperate the two parts. And I'm happy with it that way.
If it doesn't bother you great, but it did me. Hopefully the next one I go to buy won't be loose. If it is I won't buy it.
Joe
Receiver to frame slop can be removed by making a shim spacer. This spacer can be created in just a few minutes with a pair of metal shears and some aluminum flashing. A piece of soda can can work too. Just cut out a small square, add a hole to fit over the lug, and fit it over your front mounting lug. Reassemble the pistol, and voila, the slop is gone. This is just like making one of those trigger shields, except you don't make the shim long enough to cover the trigger. Looks a little like this:
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Bullseye,
The bigger pictures are better, but I can't figure out how they fit. No problem though.
It makes me curious though what the gunsmith who tightened my Std auto did. There are no shims in it, and no signs he was ever there. He was very good at what he did. An ex-Marine armorer and a bonafied machinist. Too bad he retired. Oh well.
Joe
The bigger pictures are better, but I can't figure out how they fit. No problem though.
It makes me curious though what the gunsmith who tightened my Std auto did. There are no shims in it, and no signs he was ever there. He was very good at what he did. An ex-Marine armorer and a bonafied machinist. Too bad he retired. Oh well.
Joe
Joe,
As the bottom picture illustrates the shim fits into the front lug recess. The shim is fully inserted in the below picture.
When the front lug is inserted, the metal shim fills the recess and removes any slack and thus removes the wiggle.
Your gunsmith likely tightened the RST4 frame by a method of squeezing the lower frame well, were the receiver fits with a hydraulic shop press. With proper padding the press will leave no marks, and the tightened frame parts force the receiver higher in the receiver well, taking out the wiggle. This is a delicate process as too much squeeze can make the frame too tight, or worse closing the gap too far rendering it useless. The plastic framed 22/45s cannot utilize the squeeze method and must use shims to tighten the fit.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
As the bottom picture illustrates the shim fits into the front lug recess. The shim is fully inserted in the below picture.
When the front lug is inserted, the metal shim fills the recess and removes any slack and thus removes the wiggle.
Your gunsmith likely tightened the RST4 frame by a method of squeezing the lower frame well, were the receiver fits with a hydraulic shop press. With proper padding the press will leave no marks, and the tightened frame parts force the receiver higher in the receiver well, taking out the wiggle. This is a delicate process as too much squeeze can make the frame too tight, or worse closing the gap too far rendering it useless. The plastic framed 22/45s cannot utilize the squeeze method and must use shims to tighten the fit.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
OK, I get it now. The tab that's pointing up in your picture actually would point down at the front of the magazine well in the assembled gun.
That would act as a deflector to keep fouling out of the trigger parts as well.
What thickness is that shim? Are they available commercially or are they DYI parts?
Joe
That would act as a deflector to keep fouling out of the trigger parts as well.
What thickness is that shim? Are they available commercially or are they DYI parts?
Joe
Joe,
Unfortunately these are mostly DIY now. There used to be a guy who sold these under the "On Target Guns" moniker but he's closed up shop and only occasionally sells them on that auction site (who shall not be named.)
There's a couple of options for making these: use soda cans and cut them into shape with a pair of tin snips, or get some peelable stainless machinist's shim stock and cut some from that. The peelable shims offer the option of adjusting the receiver fit by adding or removing layers of shim stock to take up the gap between the frame and receiver.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Unfortunately these are mostly DIY now. There used to be a guy who sold these under the "On Target Guns" moniker but he's closed up shop and only occasionally sells them on that auction site (who shall not be named.)
There's a couple of options for making these: use soda cans and cut them into shape with a pair of tin snips, or get some peelable stainless machinist's shim stock and cut some from that. The peelable shims offer the option of adjusting the receiver fit by adding or removing layers of shim stock to take up the gap between the frame and receiver.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye