Volquartsen MarkIII trigger stop question

Mako72 · Post by **Mako72** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:12 am

I installed the Volquartsen accurizing kit into my Ruger MarkIII 512 this afternoon. I took it down to the indoor range tonight and shot a league match with it. This trigger is great! Much less effort (2.25 lbs vs the stock 4.5 lbs) and my scores jumped about 20 points. The Volquartsen kit doesn't include any info about the 2 set screws that go in the trigger so I just shot the trigger with out the trigger stops plus I was running late to make the match and didn't have time to play with the stops. Frankly, I kinda liked how the trigger felt without the stops installed, like a 2-stage trigger? There's some freeplay and you pull back until you feel some resistance and then squeeze the shot off. I can see how the set screws are designed to work, one taking the initial freeplay out and the other stopping the trigger from coming back any further than necessary. I'm sure Volquartsen wouldn't include them in the kit unless they did some good. For those of you who are bullseye shooters, what's the theory behind these stops and where do you want them adjusted to for the optimum trigger. Or is it strictly a personal preference, some people shoot with them and some don't? Just curious as I don't want to be leaving any points on the table.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 1:06 am

One is an overtravel adjustment and the other is a pretravel adjustment. You have already discovered their purposes. The idea is to minimize the amount of movement your finger makes on the trigger and thus less of a chance to impart extra movement in the sighting and firing sequence of your pistol in competition. Having the trigger stop after the hammer releases, prevents the trigger from slamming into the rear of the trigger guard when all the pressure is let off after the hammer releases. The pretravel adjustment takes out most of the slack, or trigger movement, before the sear is engaged by the trigger. With the VQ trigger it is important to use some Locktite on the Allen screws to prevent them from walking under recoil and changing the adjustments.

hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

Mako72 · Post by **Mako72** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 3:36 am

Bullseye,

Good write-up. I understand the theory behind the stops now. Lessening vibrations and getting back on target faster seems like a win-win situation. I shoot next week so I got a week to get the trigger stops lined out.
Thanks for responding.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:52 am

Great! When you adjust the stops take care to not set them too close to the let off or release point.

For pretravel, you'll need a little slack before the trigger engages. This slack allows the disconnector to reset in sustained fire. A good amount is about 1/16th of an inch. If you set it too close what happens is the trigger will feel like it is not reconnected after a shot. If you set it too close and this happens, just back out the screw about 1/4 turn. (careful when set the screw adjustments are sensitive) One way to tell if you've set the pretravel stop too close is if the trigger feels disconnected, push the trigger forcefully forward with your finger, if the trigger now engages then you have to back out the screw just a tiny bit. You will hear a slight click sound when the disconnector engages the sear.

For overtravel, if you set it too close the sear face will drag on the underside of the hammer and it will slow down its speed. If the overtravel is set too close you may experience light hammer strikes. The same 1/16th inch will usually work for overtravel too. Again, if this happens just back out the screw about 1/4 turn. You can use some light strength Locktite (Blue #242) to keep the adjustment screws secure. This may take a little adjusting to get right but once its done you'll love the feel and you won't have to adjust it again.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

Mako72 · Post by **Mako72** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:25 am

Bullseye, once again an excellent write up. I've printed it out and will be doing it soon. Thanks.

mk70ss · Post by **mk70ss** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:26 pm

Perfect timing for this post. My VQ trigger and sear just arrived via FedEx today for my Mark III. Can't wait to get it set up.

Mako72 · Post by **Mako72** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:53 pm

I really like the trigger now. In their instructions, VQ warns about losing the ball detend on the safety when disassembling and reassembling. Take heed, don't ask me how I know or how many times I know.....

greener · Post by **greener** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:37 pm

mk70ss wrote:Perfect timing for this post. My VQ trigger and sear just arrived via FedEx today for my Mark III. Can't wait to get it set up.

Bullseye's detail strip instructions are good to have handy when you do this.

greener · Post by **greener** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:41 pm

Mako72 wrote:I really like the trigger now. In their instructions, VQ warns about losing the ball detend on the safety when disassembling and reassembling. Take heed, don't ask me how I know or how many times I know.....

I believe a very knowledgeable person advised using a dab of something like petroleum jelly to hold the ball in place. In theory a mag light with LED's held parallel to flat surfaces is handy for those who fail to head the sage advice. That's just a theory, not something of which I may or may not have any practical knowledge.

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:02 am

I have advised many a distraught owner how to find this little lost part.

The detent ball is a very small part and can drop out of the pistol unnoticed. Or can drop out of the safety lever and down into the lower portion of the grip frame near the heel magazine latch. If lost, a quick scan of the immediate area with a strong magnetic pick-up tool can locate a tiny part hiding in a carpet or a dark recess on the workshop floor.

R,
Bullseye