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Just to be on the safe side, I always put a little grease on the lug and in the hole, using a swab. Still tight after several dozen teardowns. I used grease for a while and it works. The only down side was cleaning the grease up after shooting. My barrel to frame became loose after I sent the barre...

Squeezing the frame does work... but you need to be very careful and patient applying pressure a little at a time... we're talking 1-2mm here. As far as epoxy breaking off in the frame. I have not found that as a problem as long as the gun is assembled there is no wiggle room for any epoxy to break ...

This procedure will fix a loose receiver to barrel fitting on Mark pistols by taking up all the space worn by wear and tear between the square receiver lug hole and the frame lug it attaches to. Step 1. Break the gun down to receiver/barrel and frame. Step 2. With alcohol or acetone clean out the sq...

The acetone in Eds Red is so diluted it does not harm or disolve plastics. I keep it in a plastic bottle with no problem. I use a bit of 30W chain lube in the mix just for the adhesion additive... helps to keep a film of oil on the gun.

For 6 bucks I'll replace the whole hoster if the snap breaks. My guns sit so low in the holster I really don't need the hold down strap.

The Crosman Airpistol Holster at Wallymarts for around $6 fits many semiauto pistols. Fit's my Glock 17 and S&W 6906 like a glove. You'll be suprised how well made it is and for the price makes a great knock around holster. Google it for pix.

Just remove the LCI metal tab only (not the whole LCI) first before you start any grinding. It's free and reversible. It's has cured many a FTE problems.

I had feed ramp problems also and thought it was the mags. The "fix" that worked for me was: 1. Polish the feed ramp using 0000 steel wool wrapped around a cotton swap. It takes a little dexterity but it can be done. 2. Stop using any viscous oil, use only Teflon oil. I use Rem oil or equivalent oil...

The which caliber threads never have a resolution. They usually have a few good ideas. I don't think the issue is which caliber... it's whether a 22 is capable of doing the job as a SD weapon. What is missed and more important in the equation is what caliber does the opposition have? If I have a 22...

,22 for a defense works if you hold the gun by the barrel and hit the assailant over the head with the butt of the gun... other than that give me a gun that put's a dent in the middle of the cartridge when you pull the tirgger. In that case you wold want at least a 6 inch barrel, so that you can ge...

,22 for a defense works if you hold the gun by the barrel and hit the assailant over the head with the butt of the gun... other than that give me a gun that put's a dent in the middle of the cartridge when you pull the tirgger.

Why don't you just grind/file a little off the main spring where it binds rather than the frame? It may very well be the frame but grinding or filing the main spring should be easier as the spring already has is "marked" where it needs to be filed down... and it leaves no external marks.

bearandoldman wrote:About 25 bucks will get you an Ultimate Clip Loader, very quick and efficient. # hours of my time is worth more than that, even though I am retired.

Ditto on the UCL. I didn't know about it when I bought the MKIII... but now the only 22 I'd buy would be the Ruger or the Browning that works with it.

It is conceivable that the force of the frame "pushing" up on the barrel, and with the lug acting as a pivot point, the expansion hot/cold cycles cause the barrel to crack because it has been compromised by the slot cut into it from the LCI and the heavy use as a rental? Your hypothesis is just as ...

From the MKIII-2, I see a lot of wear on the bottom of the barrel where it sits on the frame... and indication of a tight barrel to frame fit. So the barrel is "stressed" at two points in the front... where it rests on the front of the frame (where the wear is) and also at the lug which acts as a "p...