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Well, turns out I have GunScrubber degreasing stuff, so that part was easy, So was the filing. The dimples in the sight base slot were barely dimpled, at all. Things are ready to set up, but I only have Permatex Medium Strength THREADLOCKER Blue stuff, not the Red Loctite that's been mentioned. Is t...

While searching for clues today in pursuit of some continuing misfires with the Mark II era 22/45, I've taken out the Exact Edge Extractor. Pretty gunky in there, but I've also noticed the extractor plunger looks odd. Its forward part is a half semi-circle. What's odd looking is on the forward tip o...

Nic Volquartsen, good to his word, must've sent the sear my way soon after he received an e-mail because it came today. This limping Comp Target 22/45 of mine, got another gift as if for an early Christmas today, in the form of the oversize sear pin and hammer bushing from Clark Custom (their #517 k...

From last year: I'd dimpled the frame under the rear sight base to try to help hold the sight base in place. It didn't work very well. Bullseye responded as follows: <You could also lightly dress down the dimpled metal in the bottom of the dovetail with a needle file, that should do the trick where ...

It says something positive about a company when real aficionados they serve aren't too upset when a relatively few flaws appear and then are handled the way VQ handles them. I feel no less positive for this incident - just like an idiot for not paying attention myself. I only had one sear that I sho...

Nic was quick to reply to my e-mail saying they are sending me another sear. I'm very much looking forward to finding out what a good VQ sear can do.

I think I'll try to contact VQ to have them re-work the surface and edge of their sear. It's really embarrassing to admit to myself that I've put a faulty sear in a gun and left it so long. Being my practice gun, and thinking that the double hitch had something to do with some other part matching th...

Found the old sear and installed it. There's no glitch prior to release with the old sear in the gun. About a 4-5 lb trigger with a slightly mushy let off with the original Ruger sear, but no two stage phenomenon at all. When I run my finger nail over the area of the after market sear in the same di...

Watching carefully with the top off, I'm noticing two things just now. The first is that when I pass through the first area of the trigger pull where I've learned to expect the early glitch - and put just a little pressure on top of the back of the disconnector, there isn't any glitch or hesitation....

OK, back in order, again. In the position last described above, the hammer was so frozen in its 30 degree position that there was also no side play at all - like there was yesterday when I was checking for looseness. And strong light into the gun showed that the hammer strut was in its cap in the ma...

Dang, looks like I've frozen the gun up. With the top off, I aligned the hammer strut with the mainspring and when it bore on the mainspring the hammer came up into its decocked position, the latch closed without the usual resistance at the end. I moved the mainspring latch back out to see if it wou...

The plunger hole in the trigger's been handled as you describe and is smooth and polished inside. Functions very smoothly as far as I can tell by all my hand manipulations. Took 600 grit to other related parts as well. No significant change in the double resistance trigger pull, though. Put some Red...

Thank you. Took the gun down earlier this evening. Tried, without advice I woulda like to have had, to polish some surfaces. There is some play in the hammer, not an eighth of an inch, but, visually, it opens a dark seam down at the hammer pivot pin. It doesn't pass the 1/8th inch test, but feels lo...

This has got to have been covered here many times. I'm wondering in what order should I be considering improvements to the trigger/action of a Mark II era 22/45, 6 7/8", Competition Target (that I use for combat style practice and maybe some matches). I installed a VQ sear about 3 years ago and prob...

I've often read of firing pin stop (bolts or pins) coming loose, but mine is rock solid after putting the new rebound spring in. What's the difference between the Mark II (22/45 in my case) and the Mark III firing pin stops?